January the 27th, 2026 – Croatia’s former skiing paradise now lies eerily empty. It once had 8 ski slopes, three gondolas and an entire hotel and accommodation area. Long gone are those days…
As Putni kofer/Martina Hrupic writes, Gorski Kotar has long been synonymous with unspoiled nature, dense forests, mountainous landscapes and a peace that is rarely found today. It’s therefore not surprising that its highest point, which silently watches over this natural wealth, has always been a special challenge and desire of many mountaineers and keen hikers. This mountain has attracted nature lovers, adventurers and those looking for an escape from everyday life for generations, offering a combination of wilderness, history and truly spectacular views. This is, of course, Bjelolasica, the highest mountain in all of Gorski Kotar and one of its most striking symbols.
croatia’s former skiing paradise is now a hiker’s heaven
Bjelolasica is a mountain located in the Velika Kapela massif, which stretches through Gorski Kotar and partly into the neighbouring Lika region. It is located southeast of Begovo Razdolje and Mrkopalj, and northwest of Jaseno. It rises to record heights for the area and is, as touched on above, the highest mountain in Gorski Kotar. The title of record holder is held by its peak Kula, with an altitude of 1,534 metres above sea level.
Bjelolasica itself is seven kilometres long. It has dizzying steep slopes, on which dense forests are interspersed with limestone rocks and occasional meadows teeming with flowers. The view from its peak is also beautiful, of Velebit, the Kvarner Bay and its islands, as well as far beyond. About 20 minutes walk from the peak is the Jakob Mihelčić mountain shelter.
a mountain named after… a weasel?
Bjelolasica got its name owing to its narrow and light ridge. It somewhat resembles a plateau: it is almost 1000 metres long and about 100 metres wide. It rises from the realm of the thick old forests that surround it, and is especially striking when the mountain is cloaked in dense snow, for which it has become famous. Its name alone says a lot about the connection of this mountain with snow, with bjelo pertaining to the white stuff. Lasast also means white, and is also sometimes the name of the weasel when donning its pure white winter coat.
The history of mountaineering on Bjelolasica takes us all the way back to 1862. That particular year has been cited as the year of the first mountain climb to the top of the mountain, which was made by officers from Ogulin. August Šenoa himself wrote about Bjelolasica and the climb to it. As for skiing on Bjelolasica, its beginnings are linked to 1913. This was actually once Croatia’s former skiing paradise, but it has been silent for a long time now.
Despite no longer being Croatia’s skiing paradise, Bjelolasica is still known as a paradise for winter fun. It is usually rewarded with large amounts of snow that can remain in its area for a very long time. It’s therefore not remotely surprising that the Croatian Olympic Centre was built there back in 1986. It was the largest Croatian winter sports and recreation complex with three ski lifts, three gondolas, eight ski slopes stretching for six kilometres and a hotel complex. Sadly, Croatia’s former skiing paradise was closed owing to a devastating fire that ripped through it.
One of the beautiful meadows that adorns the approach to Bjelolasica is the gorgeous Matić Poljana. Vrbovska Poljana is also well known, from which one of the shortest climbs to the top of Bjelolasica starts. From there (with a macadam road leading to it) it only takes an hour to reach the top, but the climb is very steep.
bear country
One of the signs that will greet you when you set foot on Matić Poljana is a warning that you’re entering an area inhabited by brown bears. The forests there are not only home to this animal, but a whole array of other wild animals that require distance and respect.
Bjelolasica is also a true hiking paradise. There are many access points and hiking trails throughout. The shortest, according to the Croatian Mountaineering Association, is the one from Vrbovska Poljana, and several trails also start in Begovo Razdolje, the highest inhabited settlement in all of Croatia. The hiking trail that starts at the Bijele stijene mountain lodge in Tuk and leads over Matić poljana and Vrbovska poljana to Kula is also absolutely worth exploring (in appropriate footwear!)
