It is the one restaurant on Hvar (or more precisely, the Pakleni Islands) which I have not yet tried but really must.
So many people have told me about the unbelievable food there, the very best in the region, one Hvar hotel manager told me.
And it seems there are others that agree.
Dionis in Vlaka, a small northern settlement on the largest of the Pakleni Islands, has been credited with the best seafood in all Croatia by The Guardian. Here is what they had to say:
The first time I got paid actual money to cook food was on a beautiful single-masted sloop superyacht based in the Mediterranean. For two months I sailed up and down the Adriatic coast of Croatia, between Trogir and Dubrovnik, cooking for rich Americans and disdainful Russians.
And it was on that trip that I found the best restaurant I’ve ever been to. It’s a shack, only accessible by boat. The son goes out fishing and the father cooks whatever he catches over charcoal while verbally abusing the guests … and that’s about it. Apart from the homemade “wine” he also serves, which takes your throat lining with it on the way down.
I feel quite reluctant to share the name of the place, but here goes: it’s called Konoba Dionis, and it’s in Vlaka Bay on the island of Sveti Klement, one of the Pakleni islands off the west coast of Hvar, near Split. It has views of olive trees, vineyards and across to the bigger island of Vis. You probably wouldn’t find it by accident; you’d need help from someone in the know.
The best thing that I ate there was the red Adriatic squid, grilled over hot coals until it exuded a sweet, fishy Marmitey liquor that I have craved ever since.
Never been to Vlaka? It is one of the true hidden gems of Dalmatia. Check out our visit here.
