There were a few things I didn’t get used to during my time in Dalmatia. I never quite developed a taste for the local favourite, blitva (Swiss chard), my father-in-law will confirm I was not the most regular helping hand in the family field.
And I never quite got into eating a seasonal essential, bakalar.
I am not really sure how to describe it. Basically, it is dried cod, imported from Norway, then soaked for 24 hours minimum and prepared with garlic, potatoes and a host of other goodness. The smell is horrendous, and I am still recovering from doing my wife a favour when she was the tourist board director in Vrboksa by agreeing to transport a huge pot of the wretched stuff from its preparation in a restaurant in Jelsa to the waiting crowd in Vrboska. I was trying to de-codify my car from the smell for weeks.
A little like tripe, liver and Bertie Bassetts liquorice allsorts, it was something you either liked or you hated.
I am clearly in the minority, however, as most people here love the stuff. And tomorrow sees a very nice tradition, as local authorities all over the region will be serving up free portions of bakalar in squares all over Dalmatia with (I think, from memory – the only thing that got me through the experience), a glass a three of wine.
Whatever your feelings are about bakalar, it is a very social occasion which brings the community together, whether or not you are a fan, and it is an ideal introduction to the holiday season.
Jelsa will be hosting their bakalar event tomorrow at 11:00 on the main square. See you there!
