It is a very cosy feeling walking out of your apartment on a crisp November evening to find Christmas lights all the way down the street – a reminder somehow of a world we used to know just a few years ago.
Walk through the imperious Tunnel Gric, whose 500m under the old town of Zagreb is steeped in history, only to find it transformed.
Emerging from the tunnel was like entering a time warp – we had gone back in time at least three years, a world where was no pandemic, and where Advent in Zagreb was internationally accepted as one of the best Christmas markets in the world. As if to confirm this time warp, The Guardian used a photo of Zagreb for its lead picture in this week’s Santa shops here: 10 of Europe’s coolest Christmas markets.
It felt like we were walking into the peak season of Split or Dubrovnik. Zagreb was packed! So nice to see so many people on the streets having fun and in obvious anticipation of seeing an Advent in Zagreb as it once was. Remember that the Croatian capital was voted Best Christmas Market in Europe three years in a row from 2014-2016.
And, as the opening ceremony began, so the city came even more to life… and light.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nm6S8eewfUAP
4:30 pm Manduševac Fountain, Lighting of the first advent candle.
5:30 pm Gradec Plateau, opening ceremony.
6:30 pm Ice Park, ceremonial opening.
7:30 pm Zrinjevac, Lighting of the Christmas lights.
Advent in Zagreb has steadily grown from humble beginnings since its first branding as Advent in Zagreb in 2010 to European champion just four years later (you can learn more about the story so far in this TCN feature story, From Zero to European Champion: a History of Advent in Zagreb), until the pandemic stopped the event in its prime in 2020. Last night showed that things had returned to normal, and the huge presence on the streets showed that locals and tourists were ready to enjoy the next few weeks on the streets, parks and squares of the capital. The opening of the iconic ice rink on King Tomislav Square was perhaps the biggest symbol of a return to normality.
And far from trying to merely emulate the Advent of old, this year’s event has a very ambitious programme, and is taking Advent in Zagreb into new parts of the city for the first time. For a full guide to this year’s Advent in Zagreb, including maps where things are taking place, check out the comprehensive TCN guide to the next few weeks – Advent in Zagreb 2022, Winter Fun is Back: Your Full Guide.
You can also check out the official website for more details.
If you have never been to Advent in Zagreb, or if you came in the last two pandemic-restricted years and left disappointed, this is the year to try again. The atmosphere in town is magical.
****
What is it like to live in Croatia? An expat for 20 years, you can follow my series, 20 Ways Croatia Changed Me in 20 Years, starting at the beginning – Business and Dalmatia.
Follow Paul Bradbury on LinkedIn.
Croatia, a Survival Kit for Foreigners is now available on Amazon in paperback and on Kindle.
