October 23, 2019 – Even for many Croatian residents, eastern Croatia is a relatively unknown destination, so what is there to explore in a weekend? TCN decided to HeadOnEast on a family road trip to find out.
We had been discussing a weekend in Budapest or Vienna. That is one of the great advantages of living in Varazdin – there is so much that is in driving distance. But in the end, we made a family decision to go in an entirely different direction for a weekend of family discovery – Slavonia.
The initial publicity from the HeadOnEast – Hedonist@Slavonija has died down now that Days of Croatian Tourism is behind us and the tourism chiefs are safely back in Zagreb, but those few days reignited my enthusiasm for eastern Croatia, and the family seemed to like the photos I was sending back. Could we have a more fun weekend in Slavonia rather than Budapest or Vienna? We decided to find out.
School finished at 13:15 in Varazdin, and we were on the road by 15:00, destination Bilje just outside Osijek, where we would stay with friends. The journey time was much shorter than I had imagined, just over three hours via Zagreb. Slavonia was actually closer than most of the coast.
The roads were clear and we made good progress and as we turned off the main Belgrade motorway closing in on Osijek, a huge church appeared on the horizon. But really massive.
Djakovo Cathedral. It was only just off the road, so we decided to stop for a quick wander around.
And what a pretty little place Djakovo is, with one of the nicest main squares in Croatia.
And the cathedral is outstanding, both inside and out. Mass was underway and so we snuck in – this photo above is just from one of the sides, not the main altar.
We debated on whether or not to visit the famous Djakovo Lipizzaner horses, but decided that we would save that for next time as we wanted to press on.
Downtown Osijek of course his its own mightily impressive cathedral from the same era and architect, some 3.5 million bricks in all towering over the city skyline.
There was a really nice vibe around town early on the Friday night, a wonderful place to walk around and explore the historic streets and buildings.
Being on the Drava, Osijek has its own ‘riva’ just as in Dalmatia, a place of space, nature and people watching. A nice little spot for a coffee on arrival.
it was my family’s first visit to Slavonia and I wanted them to see as much as possible, and the walk along the river to Tvrda, or Fortress, was magical. And although the fortress and old town date back centuries, some rather impressive changes and upgrades are in process, such as this spectacular new square, which was until recently mostly a muddy parking lot.
And when the old town comes alive, it really comes alive. Things were a lot quieter during our visit, but take a tour of the HeadOnEast gourmet festival earlier this month in the video above.
Osijek surprised us all with its beauty and the sheer number of historic buildings and wide tree-lined avenues – gllimpses of its past glories. Get more of a feel in this walking tour above, organised by locals with a lot more knowledge than this fat British blogger.
And so to our accommodation, and one which we were all looking forward to. A weekend without gadgets in the natural beauty of OPG Mario Romulic just outside Bilje.
Mario is a good friend of mine and is diversifying from his very successful career as one of Croatia’s premier photographers to open his own organic farm next to his home. It is fantastic! I stayed there a couple of weeks ago for the first time, slept like a log and woke to the clucking of hens.
And all around the wooden house, organic produce leading to the family home. The kids loved it, especially the 15 cats (mostly tiny kittens) which were roaming freely with the hens.
But we had also come to explore, and the first stop was a visit to the legendary cellars of Ilocki Podrum, Croatia’s most decorated winery and purveyors of wine for the Royal weddings of William and Harry, as well as the Queen’s coronation back in 1953 – learn more about that and the most expensive bottle of wine in Croatia.
But before the tour of the cellars, a little breakfast. A glass of Traminac with the most unusual-sounding breakfast dish I have ever come across. Literally translated – Torn Underpants. They tasted a lot better than they sounded.
The Ilok cellars are incredible, the stories even more so, and the wines even more so than that. There is a separate article coming on TCN, but in the meantime, just visit!
And plenty were visiting, even in mid-October. Just one of the day’s tour groups from the United States. Despite its position as the easternmost point of Croatia, Ilocki Podrum receives some 70,000 tourists a year, 45,000 of them foreign.
But while I was aware of the wines, I had no idea that tourism at Ilocki Podrumi was also booming in addition to the wine. The estate of Principovac is located in splendid isolation outside of town, a very popular wedding venue and complete with restaurant, quality accommodation, tennis courts and even some golf. A really great conference centre and place to escape the stresses of life.
And to party. The New Year’s Eve festivities for 500 guests are quite something apparently. Take in the view in the video above.
There was just enough time to visit the compact old part of the town of Ilok as well. Really rather pretty and definitely a destination for a relaxing weekend in its own right.
Slavonia is VERY flat and we loved the golden autumnal colours as we drove, as well as several very quirky things along the route. The famous Slavonian straw artist has been busy in the region…
And then, finally, the chance to fill in one of the biggest gaps in my knowledge of Croatia – Vucedol.
And what a gap it turned out to be. I knew that there was some claim to ancient civilisation in eastern Croatia, but I had never researched it too much, and so the Vucedol Museum was quite a shock. For this modern-day suburb of Vukovar had once been as important as Paris today in terms of settlements in Europe.
And the discoveries of Vucedol place it very favourably with other world-famous cultures such as the pyramids in Egypt, Stonehenge etc. And yet very little is known internationally about Vucedol.
A very developed civilisation which gave the world the oldest calendar in Europe, the first metal casting of tools, and some rather funky fashion 5,000 years ago.
And rituals of human sacrifice.
More on Vucedol coming soon, but check out the museum, it is one of the very best in Croatia and a great family attraction. And the enticing thing is this – only 10% of the area has been excavated. Imagine what else is waiting to be found if the other 90% is ever excavated. Croatia could be home to one of the world’s most important archaeological sites.
From the ancient past to the very recent past, as we visited probably the most famous building in eastern Croatia and symbol of the suffering of the heroic city of Vukovar, which is now under reconstruction.
I had planned on exploring Vukovar on a future visit, but as we were so close, we decided to drive through. The iconic water tower in the distance, the Danube separating Croatia from Serbia.
And cruise tourism, the type you rarely read about in the news, but growing slowly and bringing tourists to the east – cruises down the River Danube. Still going strong in mid-October.
And so to our next stop – to the oldest continuously inhabited town in all Europe, home to some of the more sensational Vucedol finds. Vinkovci, a fascinating town we covered in some detail recently.
And since my visit a few weeks ago, yet one more sensational discovery – wonderfully preserved remains of a Roman chariot and horse. What other secrets await to be discovered – from Roman times, the Vucedol era, and others?
There was lots to ponder and discuss as we headed back to our organic paradise on Saturday night.
Sunday morning was spent with Barba Mario. As far away from the stress of modern life as one could hope to be.
We really enjoyed our tour of his wonderful project, which you can learn more about on Facebook. and all the little details, such as this little bug hotel, which provides the right conditions for wild bees to thrive. They are essential as they work in much lower temperatures than ordinary bees, therefore pollinating where pollination would otherwise not happen.
And after a tour, a little breakfast – all locally sourced or home-grown.
Slavonia is known for many things, including the best hospitality in all Croatia, and while we had planned to leave a little earlier, a tour of Mario’s ‘Meat Church’ and an invitation to lunch proved too hard to resist.
And while Mario slow-cooked the meat, we drove the one kilometre necessary to one of the natural jewels of Croatian tourism, Kopacki Rit Nature Park.
The weather was perfect, the nature more so – one of the most important wetlands in Europe, with over 300 species of birds.
And nicely constructed wooden walkways took you through the marshlands – beautifully done.
And we were not alone. Another boat full of tourists heads out into the Kopacki Rit waterways.
Meanwhile…
Romulic the photographer combines with Romulic the masterchef.
Cooking as It Once Was.
A hearty lunch, great company and fabulous Slavonian hospitality. It was with some regret that we packed our things and headed back west to our regular lives.
Budapest or Vienna for the weekend? Why not explore the jewels which are much closer to home instead?
Here are 10 things that I learned about eastern Croatia this month.
