Dobra hrana (Good food), Jutarnji list’s foodie magazine, brings us the story of Konoba Senko, a restaurant on the southern side of the island of Vis, a restaurant like no other, which is at the same time a place to have amazing food and to have a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Senko Karuza is one of the greatest Croatian modern writers, a master of the short story, who has decided to dedicate his life to a restaurant he created in a bay on Vis. The bay is called Mala Travna and is mostly visited by nautical tourists. And meeting Senko, whom people sometimes nickname “The Robinson of Vis”, is an experience on its own. Often in a bad mood, seeming to hold a lot of contempt for the guests who arrive to “his cove” in high heels, with loud music and the “do you know who I am” attitude, if you show respect for him and his lifestyle, he’ll prepare the most perfect seafood dishes of your life.
In the past, he used to tell guests to leave any electronics on their boats, as there’s no electricity or GSM signal in the cove. These days, there’s a generator (although not a really reliable one), but still no signal, so if you want to bring your mobile phones, you’re allowed.
If Senko decides he wants to make food for you, first you’ll get several of his awesome rakijas, then a soup made from the ingredients Senko had on hand to cook, then you’ll be served a pasta dish, then a brujet (which is how a dish Italians call “brodetto” is pronounced in this part of Croatia) made with numerous types of fish. And then you’ll be served with fish from the grill, the freshest kind of fish you’ll find anywhere, taken from the sea that day, smoked while on the grill with the local herbs. The food is based on the traditional recipes, although modernised, and the authors of the review swear that what Konoba Senko offers is better than what most restaurants with a Michelin star in Croatia do. Of course, none of it is expected to go down without Vugava, a local white wine variety.
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