(Photos by Steve Tsentserenky)
September 1, 2023 – No visit to Istria is complete without a visit to the truffle capital that offers so much more – magical Motovun.
I distinctly remember the first time I saw it, way back in 2005. It just sat there, majestically atop the hill, its traditional stone houses snaking down the hillside. All around, wonderful greenery under an azure blue sky. Since that magical moment that I first eyes upon Motovun, it has a special place in my heart, and that initial view has remained one of the iconic picture postcards of this spectacular country.
Back then, I was staying with a friend in Motovun for the internationally acclaimed Motovun Film Festival, just one more string in the village’s impressive cultural offering. There was a relaxed vibe and pace of life that was much less stressful than the busyness of the coast. I loved it.
Almost 20 years later, I was back, checking out the fabulous success story of inland Istria from a standing start 30 years ago, and it did not take long to fall in love again. Motovun is small, and there are not many streets, but it oozes charm in every corner, and finding a poor view is mission impossible. Its imperious position offers superb panoramic views of green Istria wherever you stand.
The only way is up, but the effort is more than rewarded by the charm of the old streets, where tourism is very present, but not at the cost of cheap souvenir shops one can find elsewhere.
It is a place of legends, from Jason and the Argonauts sailing the River Mirna below Motovun, to a mural of Veli Joze, the gentle giant who keeps watch over Motovun, having played his part in building it and other hilltop villages (the reason Hum – the smallest town in the world – is so small is because the giants had run out of stones when they got to Hum).
And all the walking is rewarded with a refreshing drink at the several cafes, all of which offer their own special views. A walk along the Motovun walls is highly recommended for the very best views.
Look a little closer, and you will find some surprising things, such as the birthplace of racing legend Mario Andretti, who was born here (see the plaque in the centre of the photo).
There have been plenty of famous visitors too, some of whose endorsements are still prized over a decade later, such as the late, great Anthony Bourdain, who visited during his famous No Reservations filming.
And it would be rude not to pop in for a glass of something before departing the village. A visit to the Aura family distillery will blow your mind in terms of choice – there is so much choice, and it seems that every herb and plant in this part of Europe has been transformed into flavoured liquor, including some rather unusual concoctions – white truffle in gin, anyone?
As stunning as this picturesque village is, there is a growing amount of magic happening in the fields and forests below.
Top of the list is the incredible Roxanich Design Hotel and Winery, a superb fusion of a renovated traditional historic building, and a VERY modern architectural design, with a progressive wine-making philosophy to match.
A tour of the fabulous winery, innovatively designed and built on four floors into the hillside highlights both art, and some very colourful wines. The Roxanich orange wines are highly prized and easy to spot.
And you certainly won’t forget your hotel room in a hurry. From the official Roxanich website:
Discover our new eclectic, contemporary design hotel in the heart of Istria. It rests perched on a hillside, beneath the gentle shadow of Motovun, overlooking the spectacular scenery of River Mirna valley. Enjoy chic, exquisitely designed lodging in one of our 32 rooms and suites. Taste our sublime zero-kilometer cuisine, and casually indulge in some very serious wine tasting, as your base for exploring unique Istrian experiences such as truffle hunting or seaside lounging, all within mere 30 minutes from us.
From a wine perspective, the most interesting wine for me was one which I think is unique in the world.
Where the King of Istrian red meets the King of Dalmatian red.
I think I am correct in saying that this is the only cuvee of Teran and Plavac Mali. A lovely drop if you come across it.
But ask a gourmand what Motovun is famous for, and you will hear only one word…
Truffles.
The forests around Motovun are home to Istria’s best truffles, some of which can be very large indeed. Back in 1999, Giancarlo Zigante and his hunting dog Diana, found their way into the Guinness Book of Records when they unearthed the world’s largest truffle, a staggering 1.3 kg. Istria became established as the global truffle destination that it is today.
While we were hoping for a repeat of that incredible find with Miro Tartufi, the joy of actually finding truffles and watching the process was more than enough. Miro and his incredibly enthusiastic dogs took our small group into the forest, where Miro explained the basics and let the dogs do their work.
What a delightful little excursion – especially for dog lovers – and a chance to experience Motovun’s wonderful nature close up.
And it wasn’t long before we had our reward, the first of 6 truffles we found on our very pleasant (and shady) hunt in around an hour.
I was curious to see what the daughter of this Indian tourist would make of it all, but she seemed to be having a LOT of fun. Great family fun all round.
But the hunting was only half the truffle story, for now we got to meet Mrs. Miro…
A great husband and wife team, Mrs. Miro expertly took the hunt of the day and delivered delicious truffle-infested delights, starting with scrambled eggs.
A wonderful truffle salad.
The food kept coming, including fantastic desserts. It was a good job that we had no plans for lunch. A wonderful experience all round, and a lovely couple helping to promote an essential part of Istrian tourism.
Wine, rakija, food, culture, heritage and views – but the biggest surprise was saved until last, a truly outstanding corner of Istria, located on Motovun’s main square…
… and not something I had been expecting at all. When I saw a visit to a printing press in the official itinerary from the Istrian Tourist Board, I was a little confused, as well as a little skeptical.
And then I saw it.
Over the years, I have come to the conclusion that the finer parts of Croatian tourism – the things that give that little extra – come from private initiatives and passions. And here was another great example.
THE CITY PRINTING HOUSE ANTICO, named after ANDREA ANTICO DE MONTONA, offers the creation of unique Motovun souvenirs using traditional hand-printing technique on a replica of the medieval Gutenberg printing press, with the possibility to choose motifs and personal messages to keep forever your memories of a day spent in Motovun. The motifs of graphics and illustrations range from idyllic representations of Motovun to fairy tales and legends of the Istrian region. The paper used to print this unique souvenir is hand-made, where each leaf contains part of the Motovun forest thanks to fallen leaves and fruits collected and processed in the Workshop of Master Janez. (from the Motovun Tourist Board website).
Incredible. Everything done by hand, just as it was back in the day. One man with a dream and a passion, preserving traditions while educating future generations about their heritage.
And with an excellent – and very imaginative – range of hand-made souvenirs, complete with waxed stamp. A fantastic and very portable souvenir from this outstanding hilltop gem. My favourite part of the visit.
Twenty years on, the view has not changed, nor my affection for the place. A gentle giant is watching over you, and the fruits of the forest await. Don’t miss Motovun next time you visit Istria.
Want to learn more about Motovun? Check out the Total Croatia Motovun in a Page guide.
