To end this season of popular wine tastings in Sherry’s coffee and wine lab, Sherry and Sheriff have decided to invite Bertoša wines. The young Robi Bertoša is a small boutique winemaker coming from Kaldir near Motovun, who shined in Sherry’s the moment they discovered him, and now it’s time for the general public to do so as well.
Bertoša wines are a pleasant surprise. As I didn’t have a chance to sample these wines before, I was hoping for something good as his first wine neighbors, Benvenuti i Tomaz, definitely rule the Istrian wine scene. After this tasting organized by the Sherry crew, whom we thank again for the invitation, I believe another wine star is being born.
We don’t doubt the skills of young Robi, the territory he works on (Motovun, Kaldir) is excellent and he has the certain something – evident in his first wine.
The wine we were greeted with was a bubbly rose from Grey Pinot. However, not a common wine at all.
It fits with ordinary roses only by color. Rose wine is made from black grapes without maceration, or by separating the first grape juices. The get a rose from Grey Pinot, it takes a long maceration. In this case, 24 hours.
We can fit it with regular champagnes as it is a bubbly wine created with a second fermentation in the bottle, but it didn’t age long (2013 harvest) so there isn’t the creaminess we expect in champagnes, and the yeast hasn’t been removed so it’s somewhat hazy, with a residue.
The result of such an approach is an excellent, flaunting, summer wine with a wonderful acidity, finely balanced and with little bitterness in the end, fitting for summer weather. As we tasted it, I immediately thought of a cold cantaloupe, or similar fruit, although it would go great with shells such as muscles. All in all, a wine I recommend trying.
After the bubbly rose we tasted a Malvasia. This sort needs no descriptions, but a notice that this particular one won’t give you straight off all those flower aromas as most, nor will there be hints of Sauvignon, neither in smell nor taste, which I appreciate especially. Only after a second or third sip will you realize it’s a serious white wine with accented by the mineralogy of the territory.
The Grey Pinot distinguishes this winery from others as it is rare in Istria. Decent, with pronounced sort characteristics, finely balanced and what’s paramount, every sip leaves you wanting more.
At the end, a Terrano. To emphasize in the beginning, if you plan to drink it, open it at least and hour and a half beforehand. In fact, pour it in a decanter. Great wine with fruit aromas, no strong acids as with many Terranos. All in all, a fine, quite serious wine.
It should be said that the prices of around 50-60 kuna per bottle are quite accessible and believe me, purchasing these wines surely gets you serious quality for the money. We hope the Bertoša family of Kaldir will increase their vineyards currently at four acres so the production will rise, as they might need to soon.
In the end, I must repeat my fascination with the bubbly Grey Pinot. It’s definitely a wine for my small home wine collection.
And not to forget. As always in Sherry’s, unavoidably: the tapas. Mario surprises us each time with a new ingredient and new idea. This time he combined them with wine superbly, and if we ever choose the best tapas man, Sheriff Mario is a prime candidate. By choice of ingredients, combinations and decorations.
Small suggestion for the Sherry’s crew – in the title, next to coffee & wine lab, find some room the tapas institute as well.
