In the 1990s and beginning of 2000s, the modern private Istrian wine industry was established by Kozlović, Matošević, Coronica and Degrassi. Then the regional and national affirmation was taken on by Benvenuti, Kabola, Meneghetti and Medea. All of these nine wineries are still important today: Kozlović and Coronica are without a doubt commercial champions, and Benvenuti is collecting global gold medals.
In the past few years a new generation of successful and ambitious Istrian wineries has matured, already with a market and competition confirmation. They are primarily Fakin from Motovun, Franković from Buje and Dobravac from the Rovinj area. The three wineries differ in terroir and vinification style and portfolio, but are connected by strong ambition and nearly uncompromising aspiration for quality. Hence these three wineries are the seed of New Istria – a group of winemakers changing the common approach and notion of Istrian wines.
1. Fakin, Motovun
Although he produces over 60 thousand bottles, Marko Fakin is an authentic garage producer: the man improvised a winery in the basement flat of his family home. Fakin’s aged Malvazija La Prima on 95 points last year at the Decanter world awards, while his young Malvazijas are storming many better Croatian restaurants, from fine dining to street food. With a bit more aging, Fakin’s Terans could be in line with the best Croatian red wines. The secret to Fakin’s success are the phenomenal vineyards around Motovun, as well as firm dedication to learning and quality. Marko Fakin is the biggest new star of Istrian, maybe even Croatian winemaking.
We recommend: Malvazija 2017, Malvazija La Prima 2015, Teran Il Primo 2015.
2. Franković family, Buje
At Decanter, the Franković family won a silver medal for its old-fashioned, but excellent Malvazija Korina, while the Muscat won 95 points. At the same time, other wines such as Sauvignon have entered the wine lists of the most prestigious Croatian hotels and restaurants such as the Esplanade, where their bottles are poured by the glass. Considering that just two or three years ago they were completely anonymous, it can be said the Franković family have made a huge leap forward to permanent success in a short time. Vineyards of the Franković family are in the famous western Istrian position Santa Lucia.
We recommend: Korina 2015, Luna d’Oro 2015 (Muscat)
3. Dobravac wines, Rovinj area
The Dobravac family is in tourism, vegetable and olive oil production, and for the past ten years in winemaking as well. Their young wines are more substantial and ample than most other fresh Malvazijas, while the orange wines are among the most expressive ones in Croatia. We feel the Dobravac family has plenty of space to progress, both in macerated white and red wines. The Sonata 2015 grouped them among the leading Istrian winemakers.
We recommend: Simfonija 2011 (macerated cuvee of Malvazija and Chardonnay).
Translated from Plava Kamenica, for the original, click here.
