October the 14th, 2023 – Croatia is still unfortunately bound by its (semi) self-imposed summer chains, rendering a country with an insurmountable offer stuck with the dreaded ”sunshine and sea” label for three months per year. In my opinion, however, autumn is the sweet spot in this country. Here’s why Istria in autumn should be on your list.
Those hills are far more pleasant when things cool down
Rolling hills shrouded by the morning mist with old church spires in hilltop towns protruding through the haze are a sight to behold. Don’t get me wrong, Istria is stunning at any time of the year, but with the most gorgeous parts situated on the very tops of hills and with cars limited in certain areas (such as in the very heart of Motovun), uphill slogs are guaranteed in this region. Believe me when I say that the enjoyment of Istria is rather rapidly stripped away when you’re finding yourself constantly walking up a hill, then another hill, and then another one during the sweltering summer months. Being covered in sweat and desperately seeking shade takes away your attention easily, and you can end up finding yourself not having the best time in the world – even in this fairy-tale-like part of the country.
Istria in autumn offers quite a different, and, if I may say so myself, better experience in this regard. With temperatures having dropped but with the sun typically still shining brightly, walking up hill after hill is much more pleasant. The sun may still have his hat on, but you won’t need to anymore. You can take in the endless phenomenal views, explore the ancient alleyways and enjoy being surrounded by Istria’s characteristic densely-forested hills without wondering how the ambulance is going to make it to you along those thin cobbled streets.
Truffle hunting is the flavour of the season in Istria in autumn
Istria is a magnet for foodies and those passionate about gastronomy for several reasons. This peninsula abounds in gastronomic delights, but Istrian truffles are what draws most people here. These truffles can run into the thousands of euros depending on the weight and amount of them, and the Istrians somehow manage to find ways to put them in almost every conceivable dish. You can even buy crisps and chocolate packed with locally-found truffles. With the typical truffle hunting period in Istria beginning in September and lasting until around November, the cooler climes beckon all those wanting to try their hand at this signature Istrian experience. With truffle hunting experiences led by experts on offer all over the Istrian peninsula, you can take to the area’s abundant forests and hills with specially trained truffle hunting dogs and find them yourself.
Much like down in Dalmatia, things are typically much quieter
As I highlighted in a similar article about Dalmatia, things quieten down a lot in Istria as the hoards go home and the sun decides to show a bit of mercy. With less crowds to contend with, Istria’s ankle-breaking ancient cobbled streets and narrow alleyways become far easier to tackle. The many museums this region offers are emptier, and if you decide to head to the stunning Istrian coast (which rivals that of Dalmatia, in my view), you’ll be greeted with less crowds on the beaches, as well. A zen autumn dip in the Adriatic is an experience to be completely immersed in whether you do it in Dalmatia, Kvarner or Istria, and summer isn’t actually always the best time to fully enjoy it. At this time of year, however…
Cycling in Istria at this time of year rivals Dalmatia…
I know I’m probably doing Dalmatia dirty a little, but hear me out. Dalmatia is of course stunning, and cycling in Dalmatia in autumn is great, but doing it in Istria is an experience that will absolutely stand out for most bike lovers. If you’re fond of getting out on two wheels and going up a hill or two, doing it during the cooler period of year when surrounded by Istria’s vegetation changing colour is a real balm for the soul. From red to yellow and golden to a deep brown, Istria’s forested hillsides are every nature lover and photographer’s dream. While Dalmatia is more or less dominated by evergreen cypress trees and hardy plants which can thrive even in the dry, karst environment, Istria boasts a bit more variety when it comes to the local flora. There’s nothing quite like cycling to the top of a hill and admiring the view as the season alters rights in front of your eyes in the Istrian countryside during autumn. This part of Croatia boasts many bike trails of differing difficulty levels, and you’re guaranteed to find one you’ll wholeheartedly enjoy.
come and enjoy the harvest of Istria’s award winning olives
Istrian olive oil is recognised all over the world by lovers of liquid gold, and it has been repeatedly declared as being among the best on the planet by expert juries. Istria in autumn is the time to come and see these award winning fruits harvested and processed, usually in the old fashioned way. From October until about mid-November, olive pickers take to Istria’s olive groves to harvest the fruits which have made this region globally famous. As soon as that mottled colour on the olives themselves begins to show, that means that they have begun to fill with oil and must be harvested from the trees. Then the hard work carried out for centuries really begins. With opportunities to visit family-run olive groves and mills which have usually been in one local Istrian family for generations, you can learn all about the delicate cultivation process of the fruit which brings eye-watering sums of money into Istria.
