Where To Stay In Split (6): Fun, Beach, Food

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Probably right next to its history, and recently entrtainment, Split is famous for its beaches. There are not many cities of this size, maybe in the whole Mediterranean, with so many places where it’s safe, fun and clean to enjoy the sea and beach. All around Marjan hill, and east of the city harbour, there is about 17 kilometres of sea line, and pretty much all of it suitable for swimming.


Still, there is one beach that comes to mind first when mentioning swimming in Split, Bačvice (pron. something like Bahtchweetse). In the last few years, tourists have re-discovered this place, and even though sometimes it can be too crowded, it’s still popular. Bačvice is deeply anchored in Split mythology, and beside Diocletian’s Palace this beach is one of the Split scenes that can be most frequently seen on TV or elsewhere. Once when you come there, there is no chance you will miss someone playing picigin (pron. pizzighin), beach fun played by five players with a small ball, usually made out of peeled tennis ball.



Of course, Bačvice is not only a beach. It’s really a good place to stay. It is spread not only on area around namesake beach, but also through whole area from the city harbour to the main hospital, locally know as Firule, and in the north up to street called Kralja Zvonimira. There are lots of available apartments and rooms around, sometime in villas. This is one of the most urban parts of the old Split, meaning you can find anything, ranging from small and charming stone houses in the oldest part called Toć (pron. Totch), to apartments in larger, usually 1930s buildings, some of them are the most beautiful in Split.


Sadly, but this area is another proof that Split really lacks hotels. Even in this, strongly tourist neighbourhood there are only two, both 4-stars, tradition leaning Park and very modern Luxe. There are several hostels around the area, the rest are apartments and rooms.


One of the reasons why it is so popular to stay on Bačvice or Firule is its vicinity to the old town, as well as all means of transportation. Ferries to islands, bus and railway stations are in the walking range, the same goes for the old town and all attractions. On the other hand, this neighbourhood is not as rich with landmarks as other parts of Split. Beside beaches – Bačvice is not the only one, swimming is possible everywhere – the only attractions are Memorial lighthouse overlooking the city port, and browsing around nice, quiet streets.



There are several nice restaurants in the area, like traditional style Oštarija Viđakovi, few Italian or pizza places around the beach, popular and affordable Bistro Toć and several good upper-scale hits like Dvor, Kadena, Nevera, etc. Also, restaurant Bruna within hotel Park is usually well-reviewed.



One of the features of Bačvice locals like the most is that it’s a great place to hang around year-round, due to Split’s great climate. Every weekend you can see thousands of people enjoying being outdoors, and sipping coffee anywhere from Bačvice beach eastbound is a mandatory ritual if you want to feel what is it like to be from Split. The most popular places are Žbirac overlooking the beach, Dvor, Ovčice, Kalafatić, and several others along the seaside promenade stretching for few kilometres. Also, there are some nice places away from the sea, like students’ meeting point Aktuell


Bačvice, and surrounding area is one of the centers of Split nightlife. On the beach itself there are several clubs, and bars are open late, but probably the most popular venue is O’Hara music club, with daily DJ programs, and frequent live performances. During the summer concerts take place on a plateau in front of the club. There are also some other popular events, like the excellent Festival of Mediterranean Film


Downsides of staying in Bačvice are rare, its vicinity and good infrastructure is a sufficient reason to stay there. However, although most of this neighbourhood is really quiet, there are zones that sometime can be too noisy for families with children. So, if coming this way, avoid areas closer to the beach and clubs, youngsters coming home are loud creatures. Also, since it’s a neighbourhood of mostly small houses, parking can be somewhat difficult, there are only two paid parking lots, everything else is left to your imagination for finding a place and driving skills.

To be continued


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