If there is one place I recommend you visit away from the beach to get a flavour of Hvar as it once was, it would be the village of Velo Grablje, a few kilometres up the old road to Stari Grad from Hvar Town.
Once the capital of lavender production in all Dalmatia, the picturesque village has had a remarkable few years of regeneration since the youth with contact to Velo Grablje started to do something to revive its traditions and fortunes. Just a few years later, the population has gone from 5 to 14, there are the sounds of children once more in the village, there is a lavender festival each June, and even a rather wonderful pub which is open at weekends out of the season. Wonderful story.
And there is Zbondini.
The opening of this traditional Dalmatian restaurant a couple of years ago was a major milestone in the regeneration of the village. With somewhere to eat and drink, this beautiful village became even more attractive, and more tourists are now coming on hiking, cycling and Jeep tours to the village.
It is a world away from the party scene or the beach, a real step back in time, surrounded by picturesque nature.
Zbondini opens its doors for the season at midday today, and will be open daily from 12:00. Try it!
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