I often get asked where are the best restaurants in Hvar Town, but I eat there so rarely these days am struggling to keep up with the names, never mind the cuisine, of all the new places open, that it is not something I feel so qualified to comment on.
When it comes to locations, however…
An invitation for lunch at the sexy Bons les Bains 1930s colonnade, which lies on the water in front of Hotel Amfora, and is one of the island’s most iconic buildings.
It has had a varied history, but Suncani Hvar took the decision a few years ago to invest in the historic building, to offer its guests something a little more exclusive – a beach club with various wellness services, prime location restaurant and one of the island’s top wedding spots. The Times included Bonj in its top 20 beaches of Europe in 2010.
A little wellness and sun seeking before and after lunch perhaps?
As I walked into the open plan restaurant in the centre of the colonnade, I reflected on something that had not occurred to me before – some of the very best eating locations on the island are those offered by Suncani Hvar. Ask most people which is the best terrace in Hvar Town, and many will opt for the amazing Top Bar in Hotel Adriana, the chic and stylish bar offering spectacular views of the Spanish Fortress, main square, exclusive riva and the Pakleni Islands all in one.
In fact, it is not even my personal terrace in the hotel, for the ground floor terrace in the Butchery and Wine restaurant is one of the island’s true hidden gems, as I have written about before. Breakfast at Adriana is a must, even as a non-resident, as it offers the best people watching in town, combined with the sound of the lapping of the waves. With a generous buffet breakfast working until 11am, it is the perfect way to start the day and watch Hvar’s harbour come to life with all its diversity. In the heart of the action, without being noticed by passers-by.
Two other Suncani terrace gems are the romantic San Marco Terrace by Hotel Palace, overlooking the waterfront on a relatively private terrace. Steeped in history and heritage, it is also a very popular wedding destination. And BB Club at Hotel Riva in the heart of that upscale waterfront – the place to see and be seen.
My Suncani waterfront experience was destined to be Bonj, however, stunning by day, stunning by night.
Restaurants get busy in peak season, and it is sometimes hard to get the best views, but there was no arguing with this!
And if people watching is your thing, a lot more entertainment at Bonj, with a variety of watersports being attempted – and with varying degrees of success…
One of the first thing that impressed me was the recommendation of the wines. Hvar has an incredible wine story, dating back thousands of years, and today’s winemakers export as far away as China and California, and yet many of the islands sell wines mostly from other parts of Croatia. I was pleased to see Suncani supporting the island’s winemakers, and why wouldn’t they! Zlatan Otok’s Posip was awarded gold by leading wine gurus Decanter a couple of years ago, and a nice start to proceedings, while the meat was accompanied by his excellent Crljenak Kastelanski, the grape variety was has been proven to be the original Zinfandel. So if any American guests are feeling homesick, you know where to come. These and other Hvar wines were offered by the glass.
It didn’t take me long to choose my starter when I saw the menu – tuna sashimi! A little soya sauce and wasabi, and I was back in Hiroshima, where I lived before moving to Hvar permanently in 2003. It is one of the things I have appreciated about the island’s culinary journey over the last fifteen years – the evolving of the standard Dalmatian menu into something more diverse and international.
My very entertaining luncheon companion and I decided to share starters, and the sashimi and the Bonj bruschetta had us filling up.
The smaller lunchtime menu has an excellent range, and while the 21-day aged Black Angus Steak looked appetising, I knew I wouldn’t be able to finish it. The truffle burrata sandwich looked interesting, but I opted instead for the steak sandwich, which included some of that 21-day aged steak, bacon, mustard, cheddar, onion jam, and rocket salad in a ciabatta, served with potato wedges.
And life was more than fine. Great food, great wines, fabulous view, engaging company. A chance to relax and leave the pressures of the working day behind. And while the restaurant had several other guests, the restaurant’s location, jutting out to sea, really gives it a sense of space, which is a decided advantage in peak season when the town is full.
A rather divine experience overall.
To learn more about Bonj les Bains, click here.
