December the 10th, 2024 – “City breaks in Europe” usually spotlight a few cities, and they tend to go a bit like this: Rome, London, Prague, Vienna, Paris. Here’s why exploring Zagreb should be on the top of your agenda.
Maybe there are one or two more, but the Croatian capital rarely makes the list. Most in the travel world are aware that people think Croatia disappears outside of summer, and if it ain’t on the coast, it ain’t really worth advertising.
Until recently, the name “Zagreb” would have been met with one or two responses. The first was “Where?” and the second was “I’ve landed there”. That was about it. Zagreb is Vienna in the rough, Prague in the sunshine, and packs a punch that few travellers realise. Destination dupes are popular as people seek less expensive, less hyped up cities to discover. Here’s why the Croatian capital should be on your radar, from someone who lives there.
exploring Zagreb means wandering around a living architectural museum
Zagreb’s skyline is dominated by buildings that span not only centuries but contrasting regimes. Yugoslavia’s brutalist architecture gazes down upon the older parts of the city, where Austro-Hungarian opulence offers new details with every glance. The glamour of the Austrian Empire ages like a fine wine against modern structures which attest to Zagreb’s new era. Blue trams make their way along Ilica, the city’s main artery, like mechanical snakes, and coffee is sipped in the gallons in countless quaint cafes.
Head to the first museum of hangovers in the world
Ever woken up with a sore head and wondered what on Earth you did last night? Hangxiety as it is now known looms in the back of your mind as your stomach protests your poor decision making of the night before. You might wonder why someone would want to document such a feeling, but given that most of us know it well, we can engage in a sort of bonding experience with those who have had one too many from across the world in this unique museum (of which there are many!)
Located at Vlaska Ulica 55 in the heart of Zagreb, this toast to the morning after the night before will certainly elicit a smile, a laugh, and a cringe.
Ride one of the world’s oldest funiculars
A short stroll through the main square in the very centre of the city will see you at Zagreb’s charming funicular in Tomic Street. This 66-metre vehicle is among the world’s shortest funiculars, and has been in operation since 1890. Sitting inside this snug blue box will see you transported the exceptionally short journey up to the Strossmayer promenade from Ilica. Once up there (which is, admittedly, a journey that takes next to no time at all), the views over Croatia’s buzzing capital city are panoramic and beautiful. You can head up from there on foot to Gornji Grad (Upper Town), where Croatia’s parliament, beautiful old buildings, and one of the most iconic churches in Europe, St Mark’s, can be found. Zagreb’s little funicular might be one of the shortest in the world, but it packs somewhat of a punch when it comes to steepness. With an inclination of 52% and a height difference of 100 feet, it’s actually among the steepest!
Head back to 1943 and escape Allied bombing in the Grič Tunnel
1943 Croatia couldn’t be more different than the Croatia of today. The Axis-aligned government of the then Independent State of Croatia was a paranoid one. Doubling up as an underground promenade as well as a bomb shelter, this tunnel can be found nestled in Zagreb’s older Gornji Grad (Upper Town). It fell into a state of total disrepair and only began being reused as a shelter in the 1990s as Croatia fought for its independence. It also hosted the first organised rave in Croatia, which saw 3000 people come, as well as DJs from abroad.
Following that, many years passed before it was reopened to the public in 2016, becoming a location for cultural events and more recently a favourite Advent in Zagreb location. My personal favourite use of this tunnel is when it is transformed into a subterranean winter wonderland, with a magical atmosphere on offer to all who wander through it. Advent in Zagreb was otherwise crowned Europe’s best Christmas market by the European Best Destinations portal for three consecutive years. In my opinion, nowhere was more deserving, and this year’s events look set to dazzle once again.
exploring zagreb from above – go skiing overlooking the capital
One of my favourite places in all of Croatia is Medvednica. It’s a mountain that overlooks the valley in which Zagreb lies, and it translates to Bear Mountain, named after the countless brown bears which once called it home. It’s locally known as Sljeme (which translates to “summit” in the local Kajkavian dialect of Croatian).
Despite being so close to all the hustle and bustle of the city streets, Medvednica is a natural oasis that always makes me feel like I couldn’t be further away from civilization. Paths weave through the dense forest, making for a great way to destress and get some cardio in, and there’s even a panoramic restaurant right at the top. But that isn’t all.
Snow sports are a common hobby among Croats when winter rolls around, despite the country being synonymous with sunshine. If you’re a skier, you’re sorted.
Medvednica is home to the FIS World Cup Snow Queen Trophy for slalom races, and it attracts upwards of 20,000 spectators each January. Once called Zlatni Medvjed (Golden bear), Sljeme’s Crveni spust (red run ski track) is the race’s amazing stage. With the exceptions of Munich and Moscow, Medvednica’s popular Snow Queen race is the only World Cup event in the entire world which takes place in such close proximity to a big city.
For the more advanced skiers out there, night skiing is also an option on Zagreb’s mountain. The cold nights can be warmed up pretty quickly with the adrenaline pumping as you take to the slopes under the floodlights.
Eat and drink to your heart’s content on the historic Tkalciceva Street
My favourite street in Zagreb (and probably all of Croatia) is the beautiful Tkalciceva Ulica. It’s a pedestrianised area in the heart of the old part of Zagreb, and it was actually constructed on top of a creek which feeds below the ground into the Sava River. Lined along both sides with restaurants and bars, it’s great for exploring Zagreb and never has to work hard to draw the crowds, both local and foreign.
In more recent years, Zagreb has seen a boom in international cuisine, and Tkalciceva is where you’ll be able to taste some of the best dishes from Lebanon to Sri Lanka and from India to Greece. Naturally, you’ll be able to indulge in some incredible local delights such as strukli, too.
Be surprised (or shocked) by the real cannon that is fired at 12:00 every day
Zagreb’s cannon is fired at noon each day, and for new visitors to the Croatian capital, such sounds can come as somewhat of a shock. Understandably so! It can be found right at the top of the Lotrscak Tower in Gornji Grad (Upper Town), which overlooks the sprawling metropolis below. The tower was constructed back in the 13th century to guard the southern gates of the Gradec wall.
My advice would be to stick your fingers in your ears if you find yourself exploring Gornji Grad as midday approaches, as it isn’t every day you expect to hear a cannon being fired above your head. While certainly shocking, no real cannonball is being fired out of the barrel anymore. Known as the Gric cannon, it has been fired every single day at noon for over 137 years!
Indulge in some local craft beer that is intertwined with legends
Most don’t realise how varied Zagreb’s craft beer scene is, with new breweries popping up all the time. The Croatian craft beer scene in general is booming, and there are all kinds of flavours to enjoy. The oldest craft brewery by far is Medvedgrad, or “Bear Town” in English, and one of the ales it produces is named after one of Zagreb’s evil witches.
Now, some claim she was a real person, with long jet black hair, dressed entirely in black. She once lived in Medvedgrad Castle and her name was Countess Barbara Celjska, a member of a noble family who invoked fear among Zagreb’s far less privileged population.
It is said that she spent her time making evil deals with the devil himself, and she became known as Crna Kraljica (Black Queen). This cruel woman was said to have owned many terrifying creatures, including a malevolent raven that she had trained to gouge out the eyes and rip the skin of all those who she deemed to have done her wrong.
Sounds lovely, doesn’t she? It only seems right that the Medvedgrad Brewery named a craft beer after her. Unlike its namesake, Crna Kraljica beer is fantastic, even if the witch and her odious raven are depicted on the label!
Visit Mirogoj, one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe
Mirogoj is an absolutely stunning, sprawling cemetery which is the eternal resting place of some famous names, from sport to science. Located on the slopes of the foothill of Medvednica, it’s more than just a large graveyard, with many considering it to be a park and even a piece of art in its own right.
When All Saints’ Day rolls around each November the 1st, Mirogoj becomes utterly magical as people come in their droves to pay respects to those who are no longer among us. Candles light up in the characteristic autumn fog that descends over Zagreb, and as night falls, Mirogoj transforms into a sea of red light, burning strongly for each and every beloved departed soul whose earthly remains lie there.
Celebrate local produce at the famous Dolac market
Dolac market is an open farmers market nestled in the heart of the city in Gornji Grad, Nestled close to Kaptol and Gradec, Dolac market is the organic, local beating heart of Zagreb’s residents and has been since the 1930s. Exploring Zagreb by getting better acquainted with food-related traditions such as this is always a good idea.
Upon climbing up the steps that lead you off Zagreb’s main square to Dolac market, you’ll be greeted with plenty of stands occupied by local people selling seasonal fruit and vegetables from their fields and gardens in the nearby countryside. In the heat of the summer, parasols provide shade to shoppers and sellers under a sea of bright red that stretches from each corner to the next. The only breakup of this expanse of red is the statue of a Croatian peasant woman with a basket of homegrown food on her head, reminiscent of all this beloved market stands for.
Dolac market is a must visit for everyone who wants to get better acquainted with Zagreb’s soul, and a part of the city that has remained unchanged throughout the years. There is also a large indoor market selling fresh fish, meat, cheese, flowers and products of old trades such as lace.
Revisit your heartbreaks at the Museum of Broken Relationships
Zagreb is full of museums, and while there are plenty of the usual suspects showcasing art and historical items, there are also some truly unique examples to be found here. One of the most unusual of all is the Museum of Broken Relationships, which is an ode to the heartbreaks we’ve all experienced, symbolised by little trinkets, letters, and touching explanations.
This museum showcases painful stories of genuine heartbreak, loss and death, as well as hilarious and cringeworthy items that are sure to make you look back at your own less than lucky experiences in love.
Visiting Zagreb? Click here. Perhaps you’re giving the Croatian capital a go for the festive season this year? Here’s all you need to know.
