A quite brilliant sketch to mark the Carnival in Jelsa on Hvar. A commentary through the eyes of a foreigner wading through Jelsa dialect.
Croatia bloomed in colour and celebration on February 9, 2016, as the traditional carnival celebrations on Shrove Tuesday took place all over the country ahead of the 40 days of Lent before Easter.
It is one of the most eagerly anticipated events of the local calendar, and a wonderful occasion to observe a local community as a foreigner, as local residents of all generations come together to celebrate on Jelsa’s compact main square. The day is a mixture of procession and performances from the children of the island, followed by a biting satirical sketch, usually on local politics.
With recent events, there was only one topic that would feature in the political sketch, and preparations were made to make sure the five-pointed ‘Communist’ star would take centre stage on the pretty ‘pjaca’.
The hard-working Carnival organising team had plenty in store for their public, and they had planned the event meticulously, enlisting the help of the local fire brigade for placing its props.
Several cars appeared around the square, highlighting perceived parking problems in the future.
Under the careful watch of those stars, the little ones took advantage of the music and empty stage to party.
And then the procession of the island’s children. First up the eco-owls of first grade from Jelsa school.
Visions in white.
The older generation was well represented by a ‘young’ old people’s home from Stari Grad.
Jelsa’s third grade, turned Dalmatian dogs, provided a lively rendition of local favourite ‘Dalmatinac Sam’ (I am a Dalmatian).
Not everyone dressed up, but everyone was watching.
The stars, the stars…
Finally, the show for the grown-ups, and a grand entrance for the ‘Bridge of Sighs’ (Bridge is ‘Most’ in Croatian, the political party which has been trying to bridge the left and right of Croatian politics since the November 8 elections). MOST leader Bozo Petrov in the middle, HDZ leader Karamarko on the left (both now Deputy PMs), former SDP PM Zoran Milanovic on the right.
Only President Kolinda refused to hide behind a mask.
New Prime Minister PowerPoint Tim Oreskovic turned up as well, and gave a vibrant rendition of the recent viral YouTube hit, TIHOMIR OREŠKOVIĆ (Tvoja prva djevojka) | BULLHIT.
And then things got personal…
A young man resembling this correspondent, both in style (short sleeves in February on the sunniest island in Europe should be mandatory) and drinking habits, appeared next to the politicians.
But not before a few homeless, partying nuns took centre stage.
Total Croatia News was presented with a wheelbarrow of delicious local treasures of blitva (Swiss chard), disguised as olive branches.
Time to salute the crowd with the deputy Prime Ministers looking on.
And there was time to meet my double and share a cold one after the sketch was over.
But one could not go home before rounding up the Communists inside their star.
A wonderful day which brings all the generations of a commuity together, a final chance to celebrate before the 40 days of Lent which begin tomorrow. And the end of Lent brings a quite different experience, and an indication of the richness of the traditions of this small town on Croatia’s premier island, as Easter preparations begin with the UNESCO-protected Za Krizen (Following the Cross) Easter Procession, a procession which has taken place each year for more than 500 years, as six villages and towns – Jelsa, Pitve, Vrisnik, Svirce, Vrbanj and Vrboska – hold simultaneous processions at 22:00 on Maundy Thursday, following a barefoot crossbearer 22km through the night on a procession through the other villages and towns.
Jelsa out of season is a fascinating experience of colour, tradition and heritage, one of the true hidden gems in Europe. Watch the official UNESCO video on the Easter Procession below.
