Spring is a delightful gourmet celebration in Dalmatia, and also the season for wild asparagus. Stari Grad on Hvar will be hosting its third Sparogijada on May 6, 2019.
Two of my most surprising discoveries moving from the UK to Dalmatia were without doubt octopus and asparagus.
Show a Brit an octopus and then suggest he eat it for his lunch and the majority will run a mile. I must admit I was not keen on the idea, but a friend gently encouraged me to try an octopus salad starter one lunchtime. I agreed with some reservations and tucked in with trepidation. It was absolutely delicious, served cold with salad, tomato, onions, garlic, capers, lemon juice and – of course – more than a splash of olive oil. It is now my favourite starter and one I enthusiastically recommend to visiting friends. Their reluctance, then conversion, then enthusiastic embracing of the dish is an experience which mirrors my own, every time.
So too with asparagus, which was right up there with broccoli and Brussels sprouts before I moved to Croatia. But you have not tasted real asparagus until you come to Croatia. It grows wild and locals head off into the fields to gather it in season, in the same way Russians and their mushroom-picking is a national sport.
And the taste is totally different, a lot more concentrated and bitter. The stalks are also a lot smaller than the asparagus I am used to, but the taste and combination of dishes at this time of year make asparagus an essential ingredient. In many ways, Spring is the best time of year for Croatian gastronomy, which is more dependent on seasons that the 24-hour, 12-month supermarkets back home.
And one of the golden rules of life in Croatia is that if it grows, it deserves a festival to celebrate it. Some time ago I wrote an article, Natural Food Festivals – 25 Things to Know about Croatian Gourmet Goodness. Wild asparagus was not on the list back then, but it can be now, for Stari Grad is preparing to celebrate its third Sparogijada, or asparagus festival. It will take place at 17:00 on May 6 on the main square by the Hektorovic Fortress (Tvrdalj). Entrance is 50 kuna and there will be a range of asparagus dishes to try.
Details of the organisers above, and a rather nice addition to the evening will be a performance from the legendary Faros Kandaturi – see them in action below.
Want to learn more about Stari Grad? Here are 25 things to know.
