June 24, 2023 – If you’ve ever travelled or just gone on holiday, you might be familiar with post-travel blues. And I thought surely I was broken for having it after visiting a small town not two hours from my home. Turns out it’s ever present if said small town is the real-life, Croatian version of where Hallmark movies take place. Once again, welcome to Pleternica.
Seriously, it’s almost disgusting how sweet they are. And as a tourist guide in Slavonia, I am ashamed to admit that what I knew and thought was enough to know about Pleternica was nowhere near what it has to offer.
Weeks later, I’m still reflecting on the experience and trying to pinpoint what it was exactly that struck me. And I’ve come to realize this – they’re effortlessly sustainable. And when I say effortlessly, I mean with incredible amounts of hard work put into everything they do. The difference, however, is that their efforts are directed towards the community. Visitors simply get to enjoy what locals live.
After having had the chance to learn about sustainability in travel and tourism at the A World for Travel forum last year, I have found myself thinking about it differently. Consciously or subconsciously, I have started caring a lot more about HOW we do it. I’ve started exploring and appreciating the concepts of sustainable, local, simple and effective. And though I have witnessed examples of it before, it all came together in the home of Croatia’s first roundabout with a fountain in the middle.
PLETERNICA – EXPECTATIONS VS REALITY
As for what we did, where we went, and what we thought about it, I’ll just say that I have never heard so many not anothers and ohmygods as Paul and Lauren let out during our stay. You can read all about it in Paul’s editorial – PLETERNICA, A NATURE, WINE & CULTURAL SLAVONIAN GEM.
Unlike Paul and Lauren, I knew what the places and activities on our itinerary were. A museum here, an interpretation centre there, a song and dance, lots of food and rakija… I mean I’m a ls good as local here, coming from eastern Slavonia. This stuff I know all about; how much could I possibly learn, how fun could it be? I had no idea.
As soon as we arrived, we were met with typical Slavonian hospitality. The kind where the owners of the bnb take you in like they’re your parents. They nurture you, feed you and protect you. They serve pure organic aronia juice which they grow and produce. Breakfast is a huge spread of all things grown and made at home, some bought at the local market. That cottage cheese is worthy all the awards it has won.
The local market is the heart of the city and a good tourist spot. Not only can you buy the freshest produce, flowers and all kinds of handmade bits and bobs, you can enjoy the events. Now, I come from a place where the local market is small enough and everyone knows everyone, so the atmosphere is always fun. These guys have taken that to another level. They organize weekly competitions where they rate the best local cheese, jam, cordial, cakes, you name it. It’s a competition and it’s taken very seriously, but fun must be had. And then, of course, they publish the results on the Pleternica Market Facebook page. That is also where they publish the daily offer – so that you don’t have to only find out once you get there. And it’s the most successful page with almost as many followers as there are residents in Pleternica.
Tourism, Though?
The main question is how all this translates to tourism. Easy – it’s organic, it’s slow, it’s unbothered. People always have and always will talk about the amazing food they eat, the stunning nature they see, and the quirky little experiences they live. Other people want to check it our for themselves.
Now, there are facilities and projects in Pleternica which have been established mainly for the purpose of bringing people in, therefore generating tourism. Still, at their core lies educational value. The prime example of this is the Museum of Bećarac. There is not another place in the world where you can learn so much about something so specific, yet so ubiquitous to the area such as the ever-important folk song that bećarac is. I will now admit that, having explored many musems, my expectations were not high, just average. And I am happy to report that we all had so, so much fun. Due to the interactive nature of the museum, along with the detail that went into every exhibit, time flies by. It forces even the most reluctant of visitors to jump on board and try being a bećar.
Ok, fine, you might say, but is that enough to propel tourism? No, not on its own, but it’s something for the locals to lean on. A day out in the museum calls for a break, lunch or at least dessert. Makes it easier for the family restaurant to expand. They’ll get their wine from the local winemaker. Maybe they’ll include world class gin produced in a tiny village in Slavonia. Man, don’t even get me started on Castrum gin…
Indeed, in Pleternica
So, how do they do it? It’s a combination of factors. Most of the educational/tourist content are examples of well written and well executed EU projects, while most of the hospitality and wine/beer/gin come from private investments from locals who decided to keep their money in their hometown. And sometimes the two naturally merge. Such was the case with the Terra Panonica train. It takes visitors from the interpretation centre all the way up to the hills to check out the huge wine barrel, the views and the road of roses and grapes of Markota winery. Another surprisingly exciting experience. And the best rosé I’ve ever had.
After exploring the place, tasting all the food, wine and gin, it finally occurred to this tourist guide to ask about the local tourist board. The answer – she’s pregnant. And the whole thing was only established recently, anyway. Who, then, manages and budgets it all? What budget, they say. It’s just locals working for and with each other. And that, I realized, is the past and the future of travel and tourism. Small and sustainable, hard work, yet effortless.
Finally, a practical sports tip – if you go running, make sure you don’t run out of Pleternica before you run out of breath.
