July 7, 2020 – Life in Zagreb after the earthquake are returning to normal, and if you are a visitor, the city has never been more enchanting.
After 63 days of lockdown on idyllic Hvar, I have travelled quite a lot around Croatia in recent weeks. As I wrote previously, while many were dreaming of travel and the beaches on the pristine Adriatic during self-isolation, there was only one place that I really missed and could not wait to see again.
Zagreb.
Part of the reason, of course, was that my lockdown was spent on one of the 10 most beautiful islands in the world, but Zagreb kept calling me. The horror of the earthquake on top of corona was a tragedy, and I felt for so many friends in the city.
Another reason was the fantastic response of Zagreb promoting itself to the world in the ensuing weeks. As most destinations settled with a lazy promotion of Stay Safe, Travel Later, Zagreb bared its soul with a number of innovative campaigns to include locals and visitors alike. It seemed as though there was no corner of the Croatian capital that was not examined.
One thing I have learned in my travels is in recent weeks is that everyone has their own perspective of things based on their own individual lockdown experience. Having a view of the Adriatic and access to the sea made mine a lot more comfortable than most once I switched off my laptop after reporting on corona all day, and I can only begin to imagine what it must have been like to be holed up in an apartment during a pandemic and several earthquakes. Zagreb is in pain still, for sure, but it is also returning to a semblance of normal life after the devastating quakes.
And rather enchantingly too. I have been several times in the last two months, and I can honestly say from the perspective of a visitor that I have never found it more beautiful or inviting. And whatever your stereotype of Zagreb was before, I think it might possibly change if you were to visit now. Come.
These videos were taken during my recent visits. Flower Square on a late Saturday morning.
Dolac market, the heartbeat of city life with its incredible fresh produce, and the majestic Zagreb Cathedral – the symbol of the city’s earthquake pain – behind it.
The greenery of the parks in central Zagreb is divine at the moment, and many are choosing to relax there with a book. After such a harrowing few weeks, the superficial view to the outsider is one of relaxation. The centre is emptier due to earthquake damage to buildings, as well as the lack of tourists. The air seems cleaner, and the addition of birdsong is welcome.
Trams starting running again along Ilica and Ban Jelacic just a few days ago after extensive works, but before then, the people reclaimed the streets. It felt natural somehow.
But the thing that I really noticed is just how alive Zagreb is right now, at the very local level. Seemingly wherever you go, there is something going on. Concerts in the park, open-air opera in front of the Croatian National Theatre.
From opera to house music. Informal events all over the city, catering to an array of tastes.
Relaxed.
Just over a month ago, Forbes published a list of the 20 safest places to go post-corona, and Zagreb was on the list. We are certainly not post-corona yet, but Croatia did an outstanding job in containing the virus, Zagreb in particular when it had to deal with the additional disaster of the earthquakes. After days of zero new cases in all Croatia, more cases have been reported, and there are currently 897 active cases in the country. To give it some perspective with other countries, there are just 5 patients on a ventilator at time of writing (July 6), and the number of corona deaths in all of Croatia in the last 30 days is 9.
Those who decide to visit Zagreb right now will find plenty to do as the city comes to life after its darkest hour.
These include Summer Evenings of the Croatian National Theatre in Zagreb, which I stumbled upon above a rich cultural programme available to the public, which has recently ended for this summer.
(Photo credit Sanjin Kaštelan)
Summer at the Stross 2020 – Strossmartre – “Carefully created musical programme, art installations integrated into space, somewhat nostalgic atmosphere of the open-air cinema, painters and their canvases and a glass of excellent wine…” See more on the official website.
(Art Park Farm Facebook)
Art Park Zagreb is a newly rejuvenated park. Located in the city center between Zagreb Strossmayer Promenade and Tomićeva street. Enjoy a great atmosphere during numerous free events take place in the Art Park green oasis.
TIP: ARTISTS ALL OVER THE WORLD ARE WELCOME TO LEAVE THEIR MARK AND CONTRIBUTE TO THIS EVER-CHANGING OPEN ART GALLERY.
Art Park Zagreb project started in 2016. and it is successfully improving Zagreb summer since. This beautiful, but once derelict park is located in the city center. It has been revitalized and became Croatia’s first Street Art Park.
Art Park is being held at a new location, Ribnjak park, as well as the Matoš u Ribičiji (Matoš at Ribnjak) project. You can visit the official Art Park Zagreb website here.
Or explore the city as a family in a way that was impossible until recently with Zagreb Time Travel, a fantastic AR/VR journey into Zagreb’s past meeting its fascinating characters from yesteryear as you explore the city.
Don’t miss Summer at Tehnički 2020 – “Daily parties with DJs, theatre and dance shows and performances, plus art exhibitions by young artists and curators, occasional pub quizzes…”
(Photo Nikola Madunovic, Ljepotu.hr)
And for a little movie culture, check out the Tuškanac Summer Stage – “The Tuškanac Summer Stage was opened on July 6, 1954 but ceased to function around 1970 and was forgotten for 42 years until the restoration and the new re-opening on June 27, 2012. Even though most citizens experience the Summer Stage only as an open-air cinema, the stage is also suitable for a variety of performative projects. The seating area of the auditorium is made of wooden benches and can accommodate about 700 visitors. The film program consists of collaboration with several film festivals throughout the summer season.
Zagreb after the earthquake is coming back to life enchantingly. Come and see for yourself.
