Price: 61.98 kn
When it first appeared with the 2008 harvest, Dillatum was a pleasant surprise. It reminded me of wines they used to make, only natural, good wines, but which had a character, quite clear belonging to a Mediterranean tradition in the general sense, an in reality Dalmatia witnessed by the author of the famous ampelography, which I could only imagine through the wine. It is important that the bottle cost 50 Kuna in retail.
2009 was not so convincing, but it was still comparable wine. To me Dillatum is especially important as it contained different sorts, witnessing a different red Dalmatia. I would therefore forgive even a larger miss to the Babica, Ljutina, Ninčuša, Glavinuša, Dobričić, Crljenak Kaštelanski and Plavac, sorts of the Kaštel genetic mix blended in Dillatum.
At some point Dillatum probably became too popular for its supply. A span of three, four years between harvests and market placement came down to a year. Dillatum 2015 was bottled in June 2016. I must admit I needed it for a workshop, but then, in mid-May I couldn’t get a bottle and I appreciated the integrity of the winery which did not release a wine that is not ready. Although it was only weeks before the bottling.
However, I am afraid the Dillatum has deteriorated. Not in the sense of being spoiled. On the contrary, it is probably now even “cleaner” in the enology sense. But, a dosed rusticality was replaced by anaesthesia. I now get the feeling of a technical wine, not schooled but roughly corrected material.
Was there an issue of stability, am I sensing iodine or mercaptans doused with sulphur, it is not my area and it’s not good to even think about it too much. I don’t know and I don’t care. I know I cannot drink this Dillatum. It is a sip hard to swallow.
I feel so bad about it that for the third day I am hoping it’s only the bottle, but a little voice inside tells me I hope in vain. And this voice does not come from any of the 4 sorts in 2015 Dillatum. It declares 13.5% alcohol and sorts Plavac, Babica, Ljutun and Dobričić.
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