Degrassi, Bomarchese, Istrian Malvazija, 2015

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Price: 78,39 kn Wineyoulike club price

We’ve learned to drink Malvazijas. Noe it is time to learn to drink good Malvazijas. 2018 hasn’t even started yet, and 2017 Malvazijas are already in demand. With beefsteak if possible. How do we go on?

Thus, good wine is good wine and will stay good even after a longer time in the bottle, and sometimes it will become much “better” than it was when bottled.

Conditions for such wines are mostly not in the “chemical balance” of basic compositional parameters such as the residue of unfermented sugars, alcohol, tannins and acids…

Conditions for such wines are in the balance achieved in the triangle of place, man and variety. Under place we mean what the French and the entire world calls terroir, where soil and geological age are as important as the climate specifics of each year. Under man I mean the vine grower who cultivates vines a certain way and the winemaker who creates the wine, an ideal interpreter of the place and variety in a cultural sense. The variety bit is seemingly clear as it refers to the type, noble vine which ensures fruits of certain qualities.

Due to cited reasons Degrassi (man) labels his Malvazija (variety) by the vine growing position Bomarchese (place). Bomarchese is not a fantasy name but a position of specific soil composition which enables elegant Malvazijas of such quality which does not grovel to our artificial conventions and divisions of “fresh” and “aged.”

The few infantile tropical sensations upon disgorging soon withers from the glass, giving room to white flowers from the white earth of Bomarchese.

Elegance and finesse of the extract quality with deep salinity is the mineral signature of the soil preserved in the grapes and wine.

Describing individual components is a violent attempt of olfactory analysis, and I am interested in enjoying the whole enabled by the right harmony. Harmony also achieved with time spent in the bottle.

Not many would blindly think this is not the current harvest. Refreshing fruit freshness and persistence (enviable in the context of Malvazija). Citruses and grass, special dryness, relatively low alcohol of 13% (again in the given context) are all positions of seduction by every “fresh Malvazija.”

Except not every Malvazija can achieve what the good ones can with time. This was never a clean&green Malvazija. In comparison, the 2015 Bomarchese is a yellow, autumn Malvazija. This is the source of the softness and suppleness, the delicateness, but still a vibrant energy which ripples along the palate and will not disappear from the glass in 20 minutes.

Translated from Vinopija.com.

 

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