I recently read an article on the young wine makers of Pelješac; the text was fine, the main point correct – new kids are coming and they bring new trends. When I gave it more serious thought, I realised the text mentions almost exclusively established wineries. As you all know, I always travel around and have visited most cellars and met many wine makers in Croatia. So, the coming of age trend of young wine makers is present all around the land and that’s good; youth brings new ideas while taking experience from older generations. I want to point out some young wine makers who will, in my opinion, be great wine stars.
We begin, naturally, in Istria. Here we have plenty of truly great wine makers such as Matošević, Kozlović, Coronica, Degrassi, Kabola, Clai and others. Their work has enticed and in a way created, a large group of wine makers who are not exactly young – starting up, but not old either; I mean Tomaz, Benvenuti brothers, Trapan, Cuj…
Not to mention them all, there are many; they all make superior wines and are recognised wine makers even beyond Croatia, but I am looking for young wine makers who are not yet known to the wide audience. In Istria, my choice are the Deklić brothers. I expect a lot from them They are very dedicated to their work, cherish tradition, but are not afraid to use technical novelties when they feel the need. I have tried their wines; they are still searching, although these are all good wines and they are on the right track, with only twenty-something years of age. When in Istria, stop by the Deklić family and watch them develop. It’ll be worth the wait.
From Istria we will go to the hilly Croatia. There we have many young wine makers – all one better than the other. In Međimurje there is Tea Dvanajščak (now Vuković) and young Cmrečnjak. David Štampar is already a rounded wine maker, although young. In Moslavina there is the Trdenić family and Kašner brothers. In Zelina lives and work Ivana Puhelek – I expect a lot from her in the future, and believe we will soon see the works of Karlo Kos. Thus we arrive to Plešivica; in my opinion, currently the most potent region regarding young wine makers. Young Korak is already doing miracles, wines many will never make… Dominik Jagunić – his Grey Pinot is already in the top wines in Croatia. There is Ivan Pavlečić you will hear of soon; a man is preparing a true wine speciality in his cellar. I only mention young wine makers, though.
A man I personally expect most in this part of Croatia, and beyond, is Nikola Šember. He is fortunate to be beside one of the best wine makers in Croatia, his father Zdenko Šember. I have spoken to Nikola many times, his thoughts are fantastic, he is quite open to new ideas, now wonder since the “old” Šember has each year several wine experiments which do not reach the market due to quantity. When wine talk begins, look into Nikola’s eyes and you will see them change – he has “that something.” We are following the first wine he is making, it’s an amphorae story and it’s good; when it hits the market, try it!
Slavonia and Baranja… Croatian flatlands filled with great wine makers. What more needs to be said when we mention Krauthaker, Enjingi, Adžić… Not to go on, as we would need time and space, so many are in Slavonia. No less in Baranja. Starting from Gerštmajer and Josić, Kolar family and Pinkert… Both sub regions have many young people in wineries and it seems to be the only region where women ar heading wineries, which I think is quite god. It may have all begun with Jasna Antunović, now an established wine maker. There is also Martina Krauthaker, then the Kolar sisters and Kristina Pinkert.
However, I expect a lot from the young crew of Szabo winery. I met them at this year’s Gatorfest. Very young, but they know what they want and how to get it. I was especially impressed by their Pinot Blanc – very fine wine. Talking to them about vineyards, I quickly realised they have “that something,” they love it in a different way. If they develop properly, it will be one of the better wineries – I am convinced.
Naturally, we are left with Dalmatia. Since the conditions for wine making is God-given, no wonder there are many excellent wine makers and equally many young ones. Probably every one of you has their favourite. There are the Vukas brothers; if we can still place them among young wine makers, they are already great. Naturally, Miloš brothers – excellent guys with plenty of knowledge and burden of having legendary Frano Miloš as their father, needing to get out of his shadow and tell their story, but as I know them, that’s not a problem. I must mention Matuško junior and Madirazza, and that’s only Pelješac. We can also mention the Senjković family from Brač.
In the hinterland of Šibenik the Rak brothers are more and more active in the family winery and are making a great story. There are plenty, but I try to single out those with “something.” In Korčula there is a whole list of young wine makers led by Kunjašić, Baničević (Toreta) and Milina.
However, the man I expect great wines from is Petar Bačić, a low-profile young wine maker from Blato. When you talk with him of wine, it’s as if you enter another world. Petar is a wine romantic, and yet, stand on the ground – his head is not in the clouds. He is what we like to say – a wine man. Petar is at the very beginning and there will be wonderings, but also great wines. This summer, by chance I tasted his sparkling wine which no one outside the family tried before and it was a great honour. That sparkling reminded me of Šember’s, and I consider his the best in the land. I believe he will have a serious harvest this year for the sparkling and I will be directly to blame; thank God.
In Dalmatian hinterland there is a young man who already makes superior wines and I value his work immensely. He works in Grabovac winery, named Mislav Maršić. Since he is not an unknown story, I will not write much more.
In the end, I want to say: remember the names Nikola Šember, Petar Bačić and Mislav Maršić – future great wine makers.
For the original and more from the G.E.T. Report, click here.
