One of the many paradoxes of this wonderful country – for me at least – is the relationship Zagreb and the rest of the country has with Slavonia and eastern Croatia (for ease of reading purposes, I will use Slavonia to refer to Osijek – Baranja, and Vukovar – Srijem counties in this article).
Every November 18, Facebook profile photos all over the country and the diaspora are changed to remember and honour those who made the ultimate sacrifice on the anniversary of the fall of Vukovar. All the politicians and thousands of Croats from all over the country head to the Hero City to pay their respects. It is an intense and emotional day, one which I documented in 2019 in Vukovar Remembrance Day Through the Eyes of a Foreign Resident.
But come November 19 and Vukovar – and the east – is forgotten for another 364 days until November 18 comes around again.
Despite bearing the brunt of the Serb onslaught in the Homeland War, and despite so many promises from politicians over the years, it seems to me that Slavonia has been treated like an embarrassing handicapped cousin that is best kept out of the limelight and gently ignored. Acknowledged only when necessary.
And not just by the politicians.
I have been genuinely shocked at how few of my Croatian friends have ever been to Slavonia, including those among the 200,000 Croats who go skiing abroad each year (the point here is not about skiing, but having the income to travel). And I am even more shocked at how little many of them know about eastern Croatia. Simple questions such as…
What is the capital of Baranja?
Can you name three famous buildings in eastern Croatia, not including the Vukovar Water Tower?
Where is the cradle of Indo-European civilisation?
Which Croatian wine was served at the Coronation of Queen Elizabeth, as well as the weddings of Princes Willliam and Harry?
… have been met with largely blank stares when I asked friends in Zagreb.
Slavonia is portrayed in the media as a sad place of mass emigration, struggling to move on from the war, where good news rarely exists. For many Croats, the whole of eastern Croatia is a blur associated with the aftermath of war, emigration, and economic stagnation.
Next week, during my panel discussion, Storytelling and the Nomad Movement, at Digital Nomad Week based out of Bali, I will be announcing the launch of our new CROMADS platform, which connects Croatia’s limitless authentic experiences to digital nomads and tourists, all over Croatia, 12 months a year. As part of the preparations for the CROMADS platform, I took Steve Tsentserensky to eastern Croatia for a 6-day tour of Croatia’s two most easternmost counties.
Steve is a very talented American writer and videographer who was one of the first to receive the Croatian digital nomad permit. His promotion of Croatia has been relentless ever since, including this viral video on the digital nomad lifestyle in Croatia on CNBC News, which has already attracted over 300,000 views. He has also just been announced as the Zagreb Special Guest Digital Nomad Ambassador for 2021. Steve had absolutely no clue about eastern Croatia and so was in a similar position as many locals here in Croatia.
I contacted the tourist board directors of Osijek-Baranja and Vukovar-Srijem counties, Ivana Juric and Rujana Busic Srpak, and explained the mission to film the very best of the east for CROMADS. They kindly agreed to organise a 6-day itinerary for us. Steve will have a video report of the trip, including some truly epic drone footage, later in the month. But as today is Osijek’s special day, let’s take a tour of Slavonia Full of Life, the reality.
Day 1 – Zagreb to Ilok
06:13 Zagreb, Day One. 6 days, 1 Yank, 1 camera. The mission – to discover if there is life in Eastern Croatia in November. #Ajmo Slavonia, make me proud and show us what you’ve got. With Steve Tsentserensky #CROMADS
Our first stop was the easternmost point of Croatia, which is actually closer to Zagreb than Split. Ilocki Podrum and its phenomenal vineyards are the gateway to Western Europe in Ilok. And where else in the world can you hold three bottles of the same wine what was served at the Coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953, as well as the weddings of both Prince William and Prince Harry? Learn more about the magic of Ilocki Podrum in this TCN visit a couple of years ago.
The place to stay is the magnificent Principovac Estate, which is perched on a hill and overlooking the endless vineyards.
And there was just enough time after an excellent wine sampling to brush up on my golfing skills before dark.
Day 2 – Vucedol, Ovcara, Vukovar, Otocki Virovi and Vinkovci
Did you know that the cradle of Indo-European civilisation was in eastern Croatia, and that there is an award-winning museum built into the location? Learn more about incredible Vucedol on this TCN 2019 visit.
Very close by and a much more recent memorial at Ovcara, to the victims of the 1991 massacre of around 260 patients of the Vukovar Hospital, who were transported to Ovcara once Vukovar was conquered, tortured and murdered. The bullets in the floor are but one poignant reminder.
The Vukovar Water Tower is a national symbol of resistance and pride. While the exterior remains untouched, the interior has been renovated, and the viewing point at the top is a popular attraction, as well as giving outstanding views of the city, the Danube and across to Vojvodina in Serbia.
A vegetarian when the Slavonian diet would allow it, Asian vegetable wok noodles were a pleasant surprise for Steve at the outstanding Lola in the centre of Vukovar.
And then for something completely different – a journey into the classroom back in nature, as we headed into the forest to the recently opened Otocki Virovi Bio-ecological education centre. Amazing carbon-neutral hotel, wellness and conference facility in the middle of the forest. I will be returning with the TCN crew for a teambuilding weekend in Spring.
You don’t see many public telephones in Croatia these days, but here is one in Vinkovci, the oldest continuously inhabited town in Europe, dating back some 8,300 years. Learn more in Vinkovci: 10 Things to Know about Europe’s Oldest Town.
Home to the oldest calendar in Europe, whose symbols adorn the main pedestrian street. Nice shot, Stevie T!
And far from being dead, Vinkovci was full of life at the rockabilly bar Hang Loose that night.
Day 3 – Vukovar Remembrance Day and Foreign Veterans BBQ at The White Boar
November 18 is Vukovar Remembrance Day, now a national holiday. Some 50,000 people turned up for the 30th anniversary of the fall of Vukovar.
We inadvertently found ourselves on national television as we filmed. You can learn more about this very emotional and intense day in Vukovar Remembrance Day Through the Eyes of a Foreign Resident.
There is a very special event each year on November 18, as all the foreign veterans who fought for Croatia gather to remember and to catch up.
The barbecue is hosted each year by Vinkovci Yorkshireman Steve Gaunt, from his English pub, The White Boar, which is literally in a field in the middle of nowhere.
From a portrait of Queen Elizabeth on the wall to veterans in uniform, Steve’s face was priceless. He later described it as ‘the most far-out bar experience of my life.’
Fortunately, we had the good sense to leave early, as things got a little lively later on as the veterans retured for the night and the kids took over, as Steve’s public information film showed (1 minute and worth watching to the end).
No tour of Slavonia would be complete without a visit to the man who has done more for tourism in Slavonia than the rest of us combined, and it was great to spend the night at the home of Goran Rihelj and his lovely wife, Mirjam. Great kulen!
Day 4 – Dalj, Erdut and Osijek
By now, the regional press had picked up the story of our visit, and the fact that I had invited anyone who wanted to meet and discuss tourism and our new CROMADS project to come to Pivnica Runda in Osijek.
But first we had to survive Day 4, which began in Dalj at the incredible Milutin Malinkovic Birthplace Museum.
Dalj seemed to be full of secrets, with the Jasna Antunovic Winery next up. Jasna was not only apparently the first female-owned winery in Croatia, but also the 2017 Decanter winner of the best white wine in continental Croatia.
Some claim it is the largest wine barrel in the world in continuous use, over in Erdut. While I cannot confirm that, it would take me a day or two to work my way through the 75,000 litres of Grasevina contained therein.
And for a winery with a water view, you could do worse than Ivo Brzica on the banks of the Danube. Among his several excellent wines, what I believe to be the only Vranac produced in Croatia.
Where else to go for a spot of lunch than the epic OPG Ethno Kuca Stari Dud?
Unusual church fan? Head to Aljmas.
But Osijek was calling and after a fantastic walking tour of the town, I had to get to Pivnica Runda for 19:00. Would anyone show up, or would I be Billy No Mates?
They came.
They were magnificent.
Such passion, such ideas, such creativity. So Slavonia Full of Life.
All hosted by the King of Fun.
One immediate consequence of one conversation that evening was a very pleasant coffee with the parents (and dog Mali) or Osijek-born tennis star, Donna Vekic, at The Westin in Zagreb a few days later. A rather fabulous exchange of ideas, and it was very encouraging to learn the Vekic vision and investment plans for Osijek
The walk home to the fortress was a little hazy, but Facebook confirms that the streets of Osijek were very much full of life way past midnight.
In November.
And when you have old town accommodation of the quality of Maksimilian, you know your stay in Osijek will be perfect.
Day 5 – Baranja
Day 5 – Baranja, and the perfect start with one of my all-time heroes, the legend that is Mario Romulic and his quite incredible Magical Forest project.
Always a strong vegetarian offer at the Romulic kitchen table.
Kopacki Rit Nature Park, one of the most important wetlands in Europe. Learn more in the TC Kopacki Rit in a Page guide.
Every dirt track in Baranja seems to lead to its own story. 30 years ago, Tito’s former villa in Tikves hosted the final meeting between Milosevic and Tudjman in April 1991. Next year, the villa reopens as a presentation and education centre.
Day 5 was significant as it was the first day of the tour where we somehow managed to avoid alcohol until after midday.
And then… Belje.
The Belje vineyards went on for days, with grapes left on the vines by the viewing point, so that visitors could sample them.
All this wine was making us hungry. Next stop, one of the finest institutions in all Croatia – Baranjska Kuca in Karanac.
A little slice of Slavonia Full of Life, Baranja style.
Two of the most dangerous men on the planet, with one of the best tour agencies, Kulen Travel.
As far as war memorials go, Batina is right up there with the very best, overlooking the Danube, Hungary and Serbia.
But Baranja was not finished with us yet.
There was one more stop before we could return to Osijek.
And yes, another example of Slavonia Full of Life, the wonderful Josic wine tasting experience in Zmajevac.
And then the Osijek fun began…
Over breakfast that morning, a British businessman told us about a great new Asian and sushi place that had opened in the old town. We agreed to meet for dinner at Franz Koch, especially as he promised to bring his business partner, the legend that is Srdjan Kovacevic of Orqa.
Together with Steve, they all droned on about drones until I asked how we could put their drone technology and contacts with the best drone pilots in the world to good use to promote tourism in Slavonia.
Two gin and tonics later, and the concept of Danube Drone Days, with the world’s leading drone pilots coming to Osijek, was born.
Stay tuned.
Slavonia Full of Life, the nighttime edition.
Day 6 – Vukovar and Djakovo
Our final day, and another rollercoaster. We changed the schedule to go back to Vukovar, as we needed to video the hospital museum for our CROMADS project, something that was clearly impossible on November 18, due to all the dignitaries from Zagreb.
The other reason to return to Vukovar was to offer this young lady a part-time job with CROMADS. Katarina was our excellent guide, and she will be helping us build the eco-system of excellence in eastern Croatia. Her first task as TCN was an interview – The Realities of Life as a Vukovar Tour Guide.
There was just one stop between us and Zagreb, and it was another mind-blower – Djakovo. When Queen Elizabeth II visited the Lipizzaner Stud Farm back in 1972, Tito apparently built an asphalt road, so the locals were very happy. No such luck with my visit, but we had a ton of fun.
Djakovo Cathedral by Steve Tsntserensky, with a little help from a drone.
One of the dangerous chaps from Kulen Travel stood between us and freedom.
“We just have one more surprise for you,” said Domagoj over lunch.
Ah, yes, an excellent lunch at Bistro Loora, which was packed, with not a seat available.
And the surprise?
What else but a Slavonian picnic?
And some quite extraordinary craft gin in an orchard with a magnificent cathedral view.
Steve and I compared before and after photographs.
And as I dropped Steve back to where it all began in central Zagreb, I could not help wonder why we don’t hear about any of this.
Slavonia was beyond magnificent. Osijek was MUCH more alive than Split or any other city on the Adriatic coast in November.
This region is FABULOUS and much closer to Zagreb than Dalmatia, and yet very few people I know have actually visited.
It is time to change that and to Make Osijek Great Again.
I genuinely think we will not have to try too hard.
So happy birthday Osijek, and may you celebrate your day in style.
My birthday wish for you is that Zagreb lets you breathe, celebrates your magnificence, and starts to put meaningful investment your way to accelerate the process of growth.
My heartfelt thanks to the many of you who contributed what was arguably one of the best weeks of my 18 years in Croatia.
In Slavonia.
In November.
I tried to put my finger on what it was that that made the Slavonian experience so exceptional, apart from the people, and I think it is this:
Nobody who makes the effort to visit Slavonia ever comes home disappointed.
