SVIJET U ČAŠI & SUHI U ČAŠI & WINE STARS
BUYER’S GUIDE
JULY 2017
IN THE WINE THERE IS SUN, SOIL, VINE AND SWEAT, AUTHENTICITY AND BUSINESS, JOY AND PAIN, ANXIETY AND EBRIETY
SAMPLES ARE FROM THE MARKET
♣♣♣♣♣♣ –Champion – 99 – 100 (or: 19,9 – 20 / 4,9 – 5,0) pts = Brilliant! Impressive! Unique!
♣♣♣♣♣ –Great gold medal – 95 – 98 (19,5 – 19,8 / 4,5 – 4,8) = Excellent, with character, elegant, classic great wine.
♣♣♣♣ –Gold medal – 90 – 94 (18,6 – 19,4 / 4,0 – 4,4) = outstanding, multilayered, with high style and a big personality.
♣♣♣ –Silver medal – 85 – 89 (17,5 – 18,5 / 3,0 – 3,9) = very good and typical, complex, convincing, with chances to develop even more, for the exigent consumer.
♣♣ 80 – 84 (15,5 – 17,4 / 2,1 – 2,9) = variety recognisable, in a certain determinate style, solid, not exciting.
♣ 71 – 79 (11,0 – 15,4 / 1,1 – 2,0) = average, ordinary, with no virtues and no significant to strong flaws, still acceptable for everyday use.
under 71 ( 11,0 / 1,0) = low-average, best to avoid.
⇑- drink • ⇗ –drink or hold • ⇒ –hold • – recommended to drink with food.
Samples are taken from sources with adequate wine storage and expert staff, so inappropriate storage effects should be excluded. If a classic scent or taste is found on the cap (TCA), the sample is retasted from another bottle. A sample is immediately rejected if at least two thirds of the jury decides so. For a quality/price comparison the wine needs at least 85 points out of 100, or 17.5 points from 20, or 3 on a scale to 5.
Croatian Highlands
♣ ♣ ♣ (L) SAUVIGNON 2016 – KOPJAR
Zagorje-Međimurje
■ VINEYARD, variety: Sauvignon Blanc
■ LABEL: superior with controlled geographic origin • dry • 12,0 %
■ BOTTLED in: 0,75 l • bottle: Loire • CAP: twist
■ DESIGN: neat • in two parts – readability good
The wine is finely aromatic, well recognisable variety – immediately points to Sauvignon. Feels rich in scent, but not aggressively. On the nose with a nuance of minerality, points to fruits (citrus) and grass. In the mouth with a dosage of savour, but also salty and with a good trailing acidity. Very good in body, with a solid lingering.
■ SERVING: ⇑ (fresh goat cheese, asparagus, seafood salads, white fish) • medium large glass • 10° C
♣(♣) (M-L) ROSÉ CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2016– KOPJAR
Zagorje-Međimurje
■ VINEYARD: slope • variety: Cabernet Sauvignon • approach: nature friendly
■ LABEL: quality with controlled geographic origin • organic • 13,0 %
■ BOTTLED in: 0,75 l • bottle: Bordeaux • CAP: twist
■ DESIGN: neat • in two sections • readability: good
Wine is uncomplicated, neat, lively, slightly closed on the nose, salty in the mouth and with quite good acidity.
■ SERVING: ⇑ • 8-10° C
Sparkling wines
♣ ♣ ♣ (XL-XXL) KORAK blanc brut nature – KORAK
Plešivica
■ VINEYARD, variety: Chardonnay 70 %, Pinot Noir
■ CELLAR: 36 months on yeasts
■ LABEL: Plešivica brut superior with controlled geographic origin – méthode traditionelle • dry • 12,5 %
■ BOTTLED in: 0,75 ℓ • bottle: normal, model, type: champagne • CAP: cork
■ DESIGN: decent – neat • label: clear, readability: good
Wine is complex, dynamic, harmonious, light straw-yellow, on the nose held back at first, points to fruitiness (white pit fruit, apple, pear but also citrus), combined with brioche, with a fine nuance of classic champagne style. Lively in the mouth, salty, with excellent trailing acidity. In body good to very good, fresh ending with a solid length.
■ SERVING: ⇑ • large glass • 8-10° C
♣ ♣ ♣ (XL) KORAK rosé nature – KORAK
Plešivica
■ VINEYARD, variety: Pinot Noir
■ CELLAR: 24 months on yeasts
■ LABEL: méthode traditionelle • brut nature • 12,5 %
■ BOTTLED in: 0,75 ℓ • bottle: normal, model, type: champagne
■ DESIGN: decent – neat • label: clear, readability: good
Wine is harmonious, finely refreshing, for summertime use. Its virtue is that it does not play the savour card, sweetness, as no matter how much sweetness can be seductive – and thus used for commercial purposes – after consummation it can be a burden for the body and a cause of new thirst. The sparkling has a soft pink colour, with very good pearling. Solid presentation on the nose, points to fruitiness, and some bread crust. Lively in the mouth, with very good acidity, medium strong body, relatively fast ending.
■ SERVING: ⇑ • larger galss • 8-10° C
Dalmatia
♣ ♣ (M-L) DEBIT 2016 – BIBICH
Skradin
■ VINEYARD, variety: Debit
■ LABEL: quality with controlled geographic origin • dry • 13,0 %
■ BOTTLED in: 0,75 l • bottle, model: Bordeaux • CAP: cork
■ DESIGN: neat, in two sections
Wine is clear, lively, straw-yellow colour, slightly held back on the nose, presents with fruitiness (white pit fruit) intertwined with notes of minerality. In the mouth more pronounced than on the nose, salty, dry, with good acidity. In body good to very good, medium long ending.
■ SERVING: ⇑ • 10-12° C
♣ ♣ ♣ (M) PLAVAC 2015 Tomić – BASTIJANA
Middle and South Dalmatia, Hvar
■ VINEYARD, variety: Plavac Mali
■ LABEL: quality with controlled geographic origin, dry • 13,5 %
■ BOTTLED in 0,75 l • bottle, model: Bordeaux • CAP: cork
■ DESIGN: decent • label: blueish tone – in two parts – readability good
Wine has a recognisable variety, clear and neat, warm, harmonious and easy to drink. Lively dark ruby colour, full scent with red fruits, notes of soil and some spices, in the mouth quite full, soft, with a mild and pleasantly bitter ending.
■ SERVING: ⇑ (with grilled meat) • medium large glass (Bordeaux) • 16-18° C
♣ ♣ (M) PLAVAC MALI 2015 Zenith – ANTUNOVIĆ
Middle and south Dalmatia
■ VINEYARD: Pelješka Župa and south positions of Pelješac • variety: Plavac Mali
■ LABEL: superior with controlled geographic origin • 14,0 %
■ BOTTLED in: 0,75 l • bottle, model: Bordeaux • CAP: cork
■ DESIGN: elegant • label: very blueish tone
Wine has a recognisable variety, slightly closed on the nose, lively in the mouth, simple taste, still a bit rough, sensation of wood and the tannin dries the mouth.
■ SERVING: medium large glass (Bordeaux) • 16-18° C
Istria & Kvarner
♣ ♣ ♣ (M) MALVAZIJA 2016 – RADOVAN
Croatian Istria
■ VINEYARD, variety: Istrian Malvazija
■ LABEL: superior with controlled geographic origin • dry • 14,0 %
■ BOTTLED in: 0,75 l • bottle, model: Bordeaux • CAP: cork
■ DESIGN: decent and elegant • label: lively and interesting – distinctive – likeable – recognisable from a distance – in two parts – readability: good
Wine is complex, spruced up, lively and fresh, warm, with substance. Yellowish, aromatic on the nose with plenty of ripe fruits and flower notes, with an additional nuance of minerality. Quite warm in the mouth – strength of alcohol slightly perturbs harmony, is salty, with very good acidity, quite strong body, lingering.
■ SERVING: ⇗ • large glass (Bordeaux) • 12-14° C
♣ ♣ (L) MALVAZIJA 2016 – MENEGHETTI
Croatian Istria
■ VINEYARD, variety: Istrian Malvazija
■ LABEL: quality with controlled geographic origin • dry • 13,0 %
■ BOTTLED in: 0,75 l • bottle, model: Bourgogne • CAP: cork
■ DESIGN: neat • label: white front – readability good
Wine has a stronger yellow colour, needs some time on the nose, then comes a sweet scent of white/yellow fruit (apple, nuance of apricot…). Soft and rounded in the mouth, warm, good to very good body, bitter ending of medium length. The impression is that its past its prime.
■ SERVING: ⇑ • 10-12° C
♣ ♣ ♣ ♣ ♣ (XXXXXXL) RED 2011 – MENEGHETTI
Western Istria
■ VINEYARD, variety: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc
■ LABEL: superior with controlled geographic origin • dry • 14,5 %
■ BOTTLED in 0,75 l • bottle, model: Bordeaux • CAP: cork
■ DESIGN: decent, elegant • label in two parts – black tone – readability: good
Wine is impressive, multi-layered, substantial, with character, lavish, warm, dense and strong, broad, very elegant. To drink with food but also for meditation. Very lovely presented and developed scent, soft and rounded in the mouth, polished tannin, strong spine and meaty, lingers long.
■ SERVING: ⇗ (refined dishes of the best meats) • uncork bottle several hours before serving • large glass (Bordeaux) • 18° C
♣ ♣ ♣ ♣ (L-XL) MERLOT 2012 superior – FRANC ARMAN
Western Istria
■ VINEYARD, variety: Merlot
■ LABEL: superior with controlled geographic origin • dry • 14,0 %
■ BOTTLED in 0,75 l • bottle, model: Bourgogne – heavy • CAP: cork
■ DESIGN: decent, elegant • label in black tone – hard to read due to weak contrast between letters and background
Wine is multi-layered, with plenty of liveliness, full, but elegant. Remarkable. Very dark ruby colour with granite tones, fine balance of spices on the nose, minerality, fruitiness. Wood blended excellently. Soft in the mouth, with lively but polished tannin, salty, with a nuance of savour, but also with excellent trailing acidity. Very good in body, long lasting.
■ SERVING: ⇗ (sautéed best red meats, but also large fish such as tuna, bonito, swordfish and baked salmon) • uncork bottle several hours before serving • large glass (Bordeaux)• 16-18° C
♣ ♣ ♣ ♣ (L-XL) TERAN 2011 barrique – FRANC ARMAN
Croatian Istria
■ VINEYARD, variety: Teran
■ LABEL: superior with controlled geographic origin • dry • 13,5 %
■ BOTTLED in 0,75 l • bottle, model: Bourgogne – heavy • CAP: cork
■ DESIGN: decent, elegant • label in black tone – hard to read due to weak contrast between letters and background
Wine is complex, abundant and dense, soft, ripe, remarkable. Dark – almost impenetrable, bouquet with plenty of fruitiness mixed with spice notes and other influences of aging in wood (well blended!). Lively in the mouth, well rounded, with well tamed tannin, very good body and quite lingering.
■ SERVING: ⇗ (red meat) • uncork bottle several hours before serving • large glass (Bordeaux) • 16-18° C
♣ ♣ ♣ (XL-XXL) OTTOCENTO 2014 rosso – CLAI
Croatian Istria
■ VINEYARD, variety: mostly Merlot and Refošk, then Teran and Cabernet Sauvignon
■ LABEL: quality with controlled geographic origin • eco production seal • dry • 13,0 %
■ BOTTLED in 0,75 l • bottle, model: Bourgogne • CAP: cork
■ DESIGN: decent, elegant • label: neat – readability good
Wine is complex and lively, full, harmonious, very good product from the problematic 2014. Dark colour, almost impenetrable. Scent well presented, with plenty of fruitiness (red fruit) and some spices, wood very well blended. Rounded in the mouth and with plenty of meat, tannins are felt, but not rough. Salty, with more pronounced acidity (2014!), solid structure and relatively long. Some more time in the bottle will be beneficial.
■ SERVING: ⇗ (lamb cuts in sauce, venison with mushrooms) • large glass (Bordeaux) • 16-18° C
Slavonia & Danube Region
♣ ♣ ♣ (M) CHARDONNAY 2015 – BRZICA
Erdut
■ VINEYARD, variety: Chardonnay
■ CELLAR: maceration, without alcoholic fermentation, several hours in the press • /maturation: stainless steel
■ LABEL: superior with controlled geographic origin • dry • 14,0 %
■ BOTTLED in: 0,75 ℓ • bottle: normal, model, type: Bordeaux
■ DESIGN: decent – neat • label: clear, readability: good
Wine is complex, substantial, meaty, serious, ripe, with plenty of liveliness, quite warm, warmer from alcohols. Coherent with: terroir, variety, harvest, age. Goes well with food. On the rise – in its prime which can last. Looks lively, clear, straw-yellow with a green nuance. Moderately strong on the nose, developed, points to fruitiness, pronounced well (fruit: domestic/white; pit; fresh, and almond), mineral, but also floral as well as spicy, presented with measure, sense of bread crust, some butter. Rounded in the mouth, somewhat creamy, salty, with quality trailing acidity. Potent in body&structure, fresh, pleasant, bitter warming ending.
■ SERVING: ⇗ • large glass (Burgundy) • 12° C
♣ ♣ ♣ (L) PINOT CRNI 2013 – KRAUTHAKER
Kutjevo
■ VINEYARD: slope • variety: Pinot Noir
■ LABEL: superior with controlled geographic origin • dry • 13,5 %
■ BOTTLED in: 0,75 l • bottle normal • model: Bourgogne – fits the wine • CAP: DIAM 10
■ DESIGN: neat, decent • label in two parts – front too intense in red colour, especially since back label is white – readability good
Wine is spruced up, lively, complex. Marked by fruitiness, flower notes, some spice notes, well blended wood, good play of saltiness, savour and acidity in the mouth. Very good in body and structure, solid ending.
■ SERVING: ⇗ • larger glass (Burgundy) • 18° C
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Club 2017
TASTING IN ESPLANADE ZAGEB BISTRO – Wine Stars Club tasted and rated wines in the Esplanade Zagreb Bistro. Tasters were, along with Ivo Kozarčanin and Željko Suhadolnik, sommelier Mario Meštrović, Krešimir Šesnić and Ivan Šneler, then Ivan Dropuljić, director of the international wine festival Zagreb Vino.com, and oenologist and producer Josip Korak. Wines were poured by Tomislav Klišanin.
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Wines for rating by the Wine Club were provided by Zagreb retailers:
ACROBAT/SVIJET VINA, AVT, BORNSTEIN, FINES WINES, MIVA, PAGO, PUNI SEPET, PZ DROPI, ROTO DINAMIC, SUPERKONZUM, VINOTRADE, VINO.hr, VINTESA, VIVAT FINA VINA, VRUTAK
We sincerely thank the BISTRÒ ESPLANADE restaurant for their hospitality and wine retailers for samples!
For the original and more from Suhi u Čaši blog on wine, click here.