March the 2nd, 2026 – Lovran is a gorgeous little town in Kvarner with less than 3000 residents, but it was once a firm favourite destination for the Vienna and Budapest elite.
As Putni kofer writes, tucked away in the shadow of the much more famous Opatija, a smaller settlement full of beauty lies relatively hidden. In Lovran’s beautiful old town, ancient history speaks loudly, churches hide frescoes, cobbled old streets are winding and narrow, and a real labyrinth simply beckons all who visit to engage in a bit of exploration. Lovran truly is the image of old Adriatic charm.
Lovran is located in the east of Istria and is an old coastal town protected by the so-called “children” of the mighty Učka mountain. These are the 612-metre-high Knezgrad and the 624-metre-high Luzinski breg. It’s only six kilometres away from the Austro-Hungarian glam of Opatija, and while Lovran is far from “unknown”, it is still often bypassed for its more famous neighbour.
Much like Opatija, pretty little Lovran was the subject of interest of the former Vienna and Budapest elite for a long time. While Opatija was always busier, Lovran cultivated the illusion of isolation, zen and peace. At one time, it was even called one of the most cherished health resorts of the entire former monarchy.
It owes its name to a plant, often found on the spice shelves of many kitchens. It is, of course, the laurel (lovor in Croatian) which grows very generously in this part of Kvarner. Even way back in ancient times, it was known as the town of laurel, or Lauriana.
Lovran is also a town full of villas and gorgeous old summer houses. Lovran’s coastline is divided by as many as 180 villas, which sprang up there for the same reason as the much earlier Roman villas did. Its superpowers were the wonderful nature, excellent climate and of course – tempting local gastronomy. Some of the most prominent of all are Villa Astra, then Villa Belveder (which is the oldest tourist facility on the Riviera from 1873) Villa Frappart as the most luxurious and most famous villa on the Lovran coast, Villa Gianna, Villa Magnolia, and the list goes on.
One of the things to do in Lovran that is simply not to be missed is a wander along the Franz Joseph I coastal promenade. That is its official name, but it’s better known as the ‘lungomare’. It’s about 10 kilometres long, and its construction began back in 1885. It was one of the most important construction projects at the time. The promenade runs from Lovran all the way to Volosko, with its old, gnarled oak trees seeming to touch the sea.
Lovran’s beautiful old town is the oldest settlement on the whole Riviera, and it is packed solid with various witnesses to some bygone times. First we have the ancient Stubica city gate, the only preserved old town gate that led to the harbour and was exceptionally well guarded. Then there’s the city tower, one of the main symbols of old Lovran, which once served as a prison.
One of the buildings that is not to be missed is the Church of St. George, which has been watching over Lovran for almost 1,000 years now. The two reliefs on the buildings there certainly attract everyone’s attention. One is a relief of St. George slaying the dragon, and the other is a moustache. It adorns the portal of one of the old houses on the main square, and the relief depicts a mustachioed and bearded man with a turban. He is said to drive away evil spirits from the house.
Lovran is so much more than just another Croatian summer destination when the call of the salt and the sea is irresistible. It’s interesting at any time of the year. Some of the local hiking trails, for example from Lovran or Medveja, lead to the very top of the imposing Učka, offering breathtaking panoramic views for as far as the eye can see.
