April the 17th, 2026 – Zagreb Cathedral re-opens its doors to visitors following long and very extensive post-earthquake works, reaffirming its importance on the capital’s cultural scene.
There’s a joke that often goes around about how Zagreb Cathedral is forever under some sort of construction. It’s true, there have been works going on for… well… a long time. The earthquake that shook the capital back in March of 2020 as the coronavirus pandemic also raged didn’t help matters, with severe damage occurring to the iconic structure and as such, even more works needing to be carefully carried out.
After six long years, the most monumental sacral building of Gothic architecture southeast of the Alps is open to the public. With its eight bells and dizzying tall spires, Croatia’s second tallest building has had no issue attracting visitors back after a long break.
an earthquake victim, not once… but twice!
To say this cathedral has had some bad luck when it comes to the elements would be an understatement. The aforementioned March 2020 earthquake caused significant damage, but it wasn’t even the first time such a tragedy struck. They always say that lightning never strikes twice in the same place, if only that were true for earthquakes.
Let’s turn the clock back to 07:33 on November the 9th, 1880. Known as the Great Zagreb Earthquake (although the one in 2020 came close), this 6.3 moment magnitude earthquake struck the Croatian capital, with its epicentre being dangerously close to the very heart of the city – more specifically on Medvednica. One person lost their life, but the city suffered very extensive damage.
What followed that initial shock were, as is common, smaller but no less frightening tremors. Zagreb’s main train station sold 3,800 tickets to Ljubljana (Slovenia), Graz and Vienna (Austria) as well as to many other cities across the former Austria-Hungary according to records. Locals were so shaken (quite literally) by this natural disaster that they immediately began fleeing.
Herman Bolle, a prominent architect active in Croatia during that period led the reconstruction of the cathedral, which was one of over 1,700 buildings across the city to suffer significant damage.
a repeat performance in 2020…
The coronavirus pandemic had just reached Croatia, the snow was falling, and then all of us woke up to a terrifying sound and the sight of the walls and ceilings above our heads cracking in the early morning. I will personally never forget the sound (I had no idea big earthquakes could be so deafeningly loud). You can read about the experience here. It was wholly unlike anything I’d ever experienced before or since.
With its epicentre just over 4 miles from the city centre just before 06:30 on the morning of the 22nd of March 2020, a 5.3 M magnitude earthquake shook Zagreb again. As is the norm, aftershocks followed, with the strongest one being 5.0 itself. Over 1,900 buildings were damaged to the point of becoming uninhabitable. Unlike the single death back in November 1880, this time, close to 30 people were injured enough by the earthquake to require medical treatment. Falling debris also tragically took the life of a young girl, and post-earthquake construction works took the life of a man engaged in repairs, who fell to his death.
For days after, people slept lightly. Some packed bags full of a change of clothes, toiletries, medication and other necessities should another earthquake strike. The sound of the trams rumbling through the streets no longer carried the same connotations, with many fearing the sound could be the Earth stirring below our feet again.
zagreb cathedral underwent renovations again
30 aftershocks were recorded following the biggest blow, which put works on Zagreb Cathedral on ice for a time until the ground settled. Then, albeit without the leadership of Bolle this time, renovation began. One of the cathedral’s spires fell off entirely, landing on the Archbishop’s Palace. The renovation of over 1,900 buildings declared significantly damaged got underway.
On April the 17th, 2020, explosives were used to remove the cathedral’s northern spire safely as it has begun to lean and pose another threat to anything (and anyone) below it.
Fast-forward six years, loving and careful works on each and every little detail, and the cathedral is finally back in all its glory.
zagreb’s cathedral becomes a place of music once again
It would be incorrect to say that the renovation of the building is totally complete. Works are still ongoing, but with doors now open to visitors, it can be said with confidence that the cathedral is back to playing the crucial role in the city it once did.
It’s fitting that on April the 14th, the Croatian Radio and Television (HRT) Choir, led by its chief conductor Tomislav Fačini, and accompanied by the guest ensemble Concerto dei venti, held a concert in the cathedral. The spectacular building’s acoustics have come back to life in their full glory thanks to a programme dedicated to the famous tradition of polychorals – cori spezzati.
The impressive concert was conceived as a musical journey through the late Renaissance and early Baroque repertoire. Such a concept couldn’t possibly have found a more appropriate setting.
zagreb cathedral is now open daily
Unable to be put off by earthquakes, this marvellous building is now open daily from 08:00 to 19:00, with Holy Mass taking place at 10:00 on Sundays.
If religion isn’t your thing, you still shouldn’t skip this cathedral when visiting Zagreb, as it truly is a sight to behold. This building is an absolutely wondrous example of Gothic architecture, and it beckons anyone with an eye for beauty and a camera (or phone) in hand.
You can take a virtual stroll around the stunning cathedral here and find out all you need to know here.
