The traditional blessing of St. Vincent took part in vineyards all over Croatia on January 21, 2017. TCN spent the day at one of the most hospitable day trips from Zagreb, at Kezele Rural Tourism near Ivanic Grad.
Many of Croatia’s vineyards remain under snow, but that did not deter the annual celebration of St. Vinent in many vineyards all over Croatia, a symbolic blessing to mark the start of the new agricultural cycle in the vineyards, and while the weather may have been a little too cold for that, there was nothing cold about the festivities themselves. Having kindly received several invites from wineries in different parts of Croatia, TCN accepted the first invitation which came our way – Kezele Rural Tourism, a 45-minute drive east of Zagreb, for a weekend of wine tradition and a LOT of family fun.
Flanked by the Kezele owners and a huntsman ready to fire a shot in the air, the bishop gave a short speech before blessing the young vines.
According to tradtion, the vineyards hang certain types of charcutterie (either air-dried sausages or in Slavonia more often a kulen, similarly tasting but larger in size product made from ground meat and paprika) on one of the vines, in order to help the vines produce large grapes when time comes. The idea with kulen is that they ask St. Vincent to make their grapes as large as the kulen on that year.
The bishop liberally throws some of last year’s wine over the pieces of meat and young vines, before some vines are pruned.
These are then put in water and monitored for signs of early budding, and indications that it will be a bumper year.
The occasion was marked by the huntsman firing off a volley into the chilly January sky. And he was kind enough to give TCN a two-second perfomance of his hunting horn in action.
But the real music belonged to the Tamburasi quartet, who livened up proceedings considerably, first in the snow outside, and later through the entire day and into the night inside the resaurant.
His official dutied completed, the bishop was happy to pose for photos with Kezele’s very impressive snowman. And it was time to head inside and learn more about the legendary Kezele hospitality.
It may have been sub-zero temperatures outside (and the excellent mulled wine helped keep the cold at bay), but there was no doubting the warmth inside, as it was time to eat.
But not before an aperitif or three. The Kezele range of home-made products and locally sourced goods is impressive indeed.
And there was little chance of going hungry, with the signature Moslovacki Stol (a hot buffet offering of the region’s specialities, playing centre stage.
And while the adults relaxed inside, there was an opportunity for the little ones to play, child and child beast alike.
What started out as one man’s idea to make and sell a little wine has mushroomed over the decades into arguably Croatia’s top rural tourism destination, a combination of great traditional food, authentic accommodation, and a range of activities and exhibits accompanied by pristine nature which truly takes one out of the modern world and into a time long gone. Kezele has proved popular with incentive groups to school trips (and has an important educational function to perform to the modern child about how life once was, and not very long ago), and is an ideal family destination, with something for everyone. Typically over an average weekend, there will be 200 people a day for lunch.
A place where the kids can be at one with animals.
Some of whom are happy to join in the fun and play.
Not content with having built such an outstanding business, the Kezele team has also invested in the destination by adding additional attractions in the surrounding areas, including the creation of a lake in the nearby woods.
An ideal way to burn off a few calories after a little overindulgence, and a great way for the kids to explore a little more of natural Croatia.
Kezele has produced a very nice two kilometre walking trail around the lake, offering a different experience according to the season, and one lined with educational info boards on the wildlife to be found around. It certainly caught the attention of these two little explorers…
Alone with nature in Croatia in January. The lake, like much of the country, was frozen over.
If there is one thing that characterises the Kezele experience, it is hard work, the realisation of one man’s dream (ably assisted by his family) to build such an impressive facility, and it was heartening to see that diligence and determination has trickled down the generations – above, the grandson of the Kezele founder, trudging through the snow with some prized firewood for Grandpa.
And, after a busy day of nature, sledding and all round fun, what better way to finish than pancakes by the fire?
To learn more about Kezele Rural Tourism, visit the official website.
