Has Croatia Ruined its Oysters? According to an Expert, Apparently…

Lauren Simmonds

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Have Croats managed to destroy their beloved Ston oysters with feces? Maybe. It sounds like another negative and inflammatory headline about how nobody can do anything right, but according to one respected expert, this might really be the case.

Norovirus is a potentially dangerous virus of the Caliciviridae family which causes 19 to 21 million illnesses, 56,000 to 71,000 hospitalisations and as many as 570 to 800 deaths per year according to the Centres for Disease Control and Prevention. Often called stomach flu, Norovirus is highly contagious, and is known to mercilessly tear through populations of people in concentrated areas, cruise ships are a particular favourite playground for the virus.

Symptoms, which include chronic vomiting and diarrhoea can become very severe very quickly, rendering a person unable to hold anything down, eventually leading to extreme weakness, sudden weight loss, dehydration, and the need for emergency treatment. Now we’ve covered the basics of this microscopic devil, how has the presence of Norovirus managed to infiltrate Ston’s long oyster-based traditions? Perhaps more importantly, just how have the Croats succeeded in allowing such danger to seriously threaten Ston’s most prized gastronomic offer?

As Index writes on the 5th of March, 2019, Vlado Onofri, a scientific advisor at the University of Dubrovnik spoke to Libero portal and explained that the Croats have indeed managed to destroy southern Dalmatia’s internationally adored gourmet delicacy. He said that the cause was the unsolved issue of the area’s sewage network, more specifically septic tanks that are full, and not being emptied. Such conditions lead to the presence of potentially dangerous viruses and bacteria, including the potentially fatal Norovirus.

Because of the presence of Norovirus on three of the five control points on which Ston’s beloved oysters are grown, the Day of Mali Ston Oysters, which was supposed to take place on March the 16th, has now been cancelled for health and safety reasons.

“I’m sorry for the hospitality and catering facilities and for oyster lovers, I know they’ll lose out on a lot because of this, but some things need to be said in order to start sorting things out,” said Vlado Onofri rather bluntly, who claims that when it comes to Croatia’s very unfortunate oyster situation, there’s nobody to blame but the Croats themselves.

“There will certainly be a reaction after all of this, but come on, have someone show me that they’ve paid for the emptying of the septic tanks! Nobody will show you that! Except the Koruna restaurant, which I know keep their oysters in pools and they’re absolutely fine for consumption. That’s the only example [of that] in Ston.

The entire area hasn’t had its sewage situation solved adequately, and it was the obligation of the state to resolve it at the beginning of the eighties when the sewage [system] was being done. Mali Ston and Veliki Ston were meant to be connected to the entire sewage system, this wasn’t done and now after so many years, it’s time to pay! You know how it goes with septic tanks, when there were small households, there were small quantities, but now there’s a lot more, it’s all too full up, and nobody is emptying them!” Onofri said.

This isn’t the first time a virus has appeared in these oysters.

“Three years ago, there was a problem. People got food poisoning, started having diarrhoea, vomiting… that’s Norovirus, viruses aren’t harmless things, that virus can live for hundreds of years in sludge, when it comes across live tissue, it becomes virulent again (a pathogen’s ability to infect its live host) because it crystallises its capsomer (a covering of protein that protects the genetic material of a virus). I’m good with virology and I know what I’m talking about because I did a Master of Science in the 1980s, and later a doctorate in Ston,” Onofri explained, backing up his claims.

“We’re dependant on the whims of humans and nature”

He also provided a response to the question of how long this dire situation might last:

“The oysters can quickly get rid of the virus if they’re in clean water, meaning that we need purification pools that we don’t have. There was an idea to make them in Bistrina, and I personally brought plans from France to show what this should look like. There were ideas thrown around about doing that, but it hasn’t been done. This is an absolute necessity, for when such things do happen, to end up with a sanitised and proper product. Now we’re depending on the whims of humans and nature when it comes to how our products end up! The pools weren’t made because of a protected reserve where nothing at all can be constructed,” stated Onofri.

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