Meet the Only Russian Speaking Kebab Seller in Split

Total Croatia News

Commuting to and from work is a common part of the day for many.

It is something I have not done for many years. Living on Hvar and working from a laptop, there has not been a daily routine for a long time. When I started the Total Split project a couple of months ago, a routine appeared, as my daily schedule was ruled by the ferry schedule. 

Often it was the early catamaran from Jelsa at 06:00 and the last ferry home to Stari Grad at 20:30, an 18 hour day. Meetings, meetings, meetings. Very rarely time for lunch and invariably, I ended up grabbing something to eat on the way to the ferry. 

After ten years in Dalmatia, there are few things I miss about the UK, but a kebab is one of them, so when I found a kebab shop close to the ferry, my new commuting life improved. 

It is a family business, very nice people and always great service. Given my reluctance to spend much time waiting for ferries, I tend to time things so as not to wait too long at the ferry. Sometimes there is time to sit and eat the kebab, sometimes, it is a takeaway.

“My ferry leaves in six minutes – can I take a kebab to go?”

As with most commuters, one builds a relationship with the people on the way, and I have enjoyed the brief chats with Antonija, a law student helping out in the family business. A kebab order in Croatian one day, an English version the next. The building of a commuter’s relationship.

“I also speak Russian.”

Ha! Almost my native tongue. We exchanged a few sentences while waiting for the gyros. I used to be an aid worker on the edge of Siberia.

That’s what I like about Split, and other cities. There is always a story, always some personality in every situation. And the kebabs are not bad either…

Fast Food Baltazar

Kneza domagoja bb..split.. (in the concourse by the ferry walking from the old town)



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