December the 16th, 2025 – There’s a gorgeous Croatian hilltop town with more steps than residents, and it’s known far and wide for its truffles and fairy-tale like scenery – particularly in autumn.
As Putni kofer/Antonio Ivcevic writes, stunning Motovun has long been appreciated by lovers of a peaceful way of life, an authentic atmosphere and perfectly preserved old Mediterranean architecture. The picturesque view of the town enchants you upon arrival, and when you finally get lost in its ancient narrow streets and smell the aromas of truffles from local restaurants, it’s incredibly easy to understand just why it captivates all those who visit it from the first step they take. What makes Motovun so special is more than just skin deep, however, and although it may sound unusual at first, its old stairs are one of its most recognisable symbols.
From the lower part of Motovun, known as Kanal, to the old town at the top of the hill, there are as many as 1,052 ancient stone steps. In this picturesque Croatian town, there are actually more steps than there are residents. This impressive walk is a physical challenge for many, but also a kind of journey through the landscape and history, which requires about half an hour of walking, good shoes, patience and a pair of sturdy lungs. Each step leads you closer to the old walls and panoramic views that are rightly considered among the most beautiful in all of Istria. For many, this climb remains one of the most memorable experiences in Motovun, both for the eyes and the cardiac system!
the croatian town with more steps than residents
As stated, this Croatian town has more steps than residents, and this is the case for the entire Municipality of Motovun. According to the 2021 census, the municipality is home to 912 inhabitants and spans an area of 32 square kilometres, south of the central course of the Mirna River. Since this figure refers to the entire administrative area, it’s more clear that even fewer people live in the very heart of historic Motovun today, which makes this comparison even more significant and further emphasises the unique character of this Istrian gem.
When you enter the old town centre of Motovun through the main gate from the 16th century, it’s very easy to get the impression that you have stepped back into another time. Old houses with colourful facades are harmoniously arranged along narrow, cobbled stone streets, the walls invite you to enjoy a leisurely walk, and the pretty terraces offer beautiful views of the endless rolling hills and neatly kept vineyards across the sweeping Mirna Valley.
a small area with plenty of cultural significance
Although Motovun is far from large in terms of area, its historical and cultural significance is exceptionally rich. This is supported by the fact that within the old town alone there are as many as 26 protected cultural monuments, which puts Motovun among the most valuable historical sites in all of Croatia.
In the dense Motovun forest, oak, field ash and maritime elm all grow well, and the entire area has been declared a special forest vegetation reserve. In addition to its abundant wealth of plant life, the forest is now widely known as one of the most important sites for truffle hunting. These precious underground mushrooms are believed to have aphrodisiac properties and fetch a fortune to those who discover them.
the home of the world’s largest truffle
The most prized among them all is the iconic Istrian white truffle (Tuber magnatum Pico), and it was precisely in the Motovun forest back in 1999 that the largest specimen in the whole world was found. It weighed an impressive 1.31 kilograms and deservedly found its place in the Guinness Book of Records.
Its incredible medieval architecture, its hilltop location, and its endless views of Istrian vineyards and green valleys are always worth visiting and admiring. If you’re on the hunt for an idea for a trip to Istria, Motovun will not disappoint you even on the quietest, darkest of dull winter days. A wander through the ancient old town, the views that open up to the Mirna Valley, and sitting down to a traditional meal and glass of local wine have a special charm outside the of the scorching, busy summer season. The good news is that you can reach almost the entire old town by car, so you can enjoy the most beautiful views even without having to climb all thousand steps.
