March 24, 2025 – Croatian tourism noise and Hvar Town: Is one of Croatia’s most elite destinations being singled out, and is there a national, rather than a local, issue that needs to be addressed?
Before I start, let me acknowledge that whatever I write on the subject of anything related to party tourism on Hvar, the polarising opinions of both sides mean that nothing anyone can write would satisfy everyone. All the opinions in this article are my own, and to several of my friends who may be upset by my opinions, such is life and I am happy to discuss over a cold one when I come to the island in a month.
Hvar, the most extraordinary island I have ever visited (and my home for 13 unforgettable years), and one which few islands can match with its natural and cultural treasures. No island in the world has more UNESCO heritage; home to the oldest public theatre in all Europe; birthplace to organised tourism in Europe; the sunniest island in Croatia; Ancient Greek heritage dating back 2,400 years to its very own UNESCO World Heritage Site; its fabulous healthy food and Mediterranean diet inscribed as UNESCO intangible heritage; an exceptionally diverse wine story with no less than 7 indigenous varieties that only grow on Hvar; incredible beaches, several of which are globally acclaimed; outstanding flora and fauna, perhaps best symbolised by the annual lavender festival; one of the premier destinations in Europe for foreign weddings; and an outstanding adventure tourism story, both in terms of activities for its guests and prestigious global sporting events.
And a vibrant nightlife, and very chic image – the St Tropez of Croatia, as it is frequently called, as well as one of the 10 most beautiful islands in the world. An island that literally has it all and which is very egalitarian, attracting backpackers and A-list celebrities and their luxury yachts, who appreciate the additional attraction of anonymity.
A 5-star destination (and with the first 5-star heritage hotel on a Croatian island, Palace Elisabeth, hvar heritage hotel, the first of four 5-star hotels, indicating the direction the destination is heading in), a rare destination which excels on so many levels, and where various types of tourism can successfully co-exist in the same space, catering to different types of guest. This was particularly true in the golden era of Hvar tourism in the 1980s (before my time), when the island had an elite image for culture, nature, gastronomy, beaches and nightlife. A perfect balance.
All those ingredients exist today, of course, but it is no secret that there have been tensions over the last decade, as money and a bigger focus on developing party tourism, threatened to upset that delicate tourism eco-system. The worst days of 2017 are now a distant memory, as the town flirted with one of the worst cancers (but a highly successful business) for quality destination tourism, The Yacht Week, which brought lots of money, as well as a lot more debauched and drunken youths.
Hvar Town has shifted gears considerably since then in the right direction, and as I noted during my walk around town last July, the atmosphere in the centre was a thousand times better.
But there were still tensions below the surface, as businesses did what they could to get the largest share of the tourism dollar. Nightclubs started to look a little more like restaurants, and restaurants like nightclubs. There were few inspections, the party got louder in search of those dollars, and everything was going a little out of control.
And then back in August last year, things came to a head with a physical altercation between the owners of two of the biggest players, video of which made national headlines. It was not a good look, and it had the immediate effect of action from inspectors and authorities. There was a clampdown on noise and illegal operations, during which several interesting discoveries were made, the most interesting of which being that the main nightclub and major draw to the island was not in fact a licenced nightclub and was also operating within a protected zone.
Hvar became a lot quieter, as national guidelines were imposed, keeping the noise at a maximum of 65 decibels – the national limit, as well as in line with EU countries. Exceptions were made only for Pjaca, Veneranda and Fortica. And while the focus last summer was on Hvar being noisy, was it really more so than other destinations – the main difference seemingly that Hvar can under the microscope with inspections for laws that apply to the whole country?
It was quite a change and I must admit, I (and all my fellow cruisers, on their first visit to Hvar in September) absolutely loved it, but it was also clear to me that this was overkill, and that something needed to be done to balance things.
Does Hvar need a place to party? Absolutely, people want to enjoy this special vibe and be on holiday. Should that nightlife location be legal? A not unreasonable requirement. Should it be to the detriment of the other tourism? Not in my opinion, and I do believe there is a way forward to better satisfy all parties.
I was particularly impressed with a visit to Bol on Brac last year, where one never hears about issues about noise or party tourism. As you can see in my video report below, Bol has a popular nightclub on the famous Zlatni Rat beach, a little away from the town itself. It also operates a train, bringing guests to various places on the way, including hotels, and this service runs until 6am in the season. So guests can party all night, then get home relatively quietly, with minimal disturbance for quests there for family and adventure holidays. Would that model work better for Hvar? I believe so.
Due to the architecture and position of Hvar’s harbour, the centre of the town is small and everything is packed and hard to move out of the city centre. All the music, above all in those summer nights, is outside, as there is a certain atmosphere that goes with Hvar. Clubbing needs to be regulated, and would be perhaps best done in an indoor space, or away from the town. A huge investment for a businessman, but then so too are the rewards.
And so to this week’s town council meeting, where a sign that tensions were high lay in the fact that the vote became a secret ballot. One suggestion put forward was to turn the whole town into an entertainment centre, which would allow 85 decibels, effectively turning the whole town into a party zone, which was rejected. The town will remain within the national guidelines, which will be followed by Hvar but few (if any) other destinations, and some small changes were decided upon, according to Slobodna Dalmacija:
“At the mayor’s proposal, after a public consultation that lasted from February 7 to March 10, a new “Decision on locations and conditions for holding events in the area of the City of Hvar” was discussed, which was adopted with an amendment allowing wedding ceremonies in the areas specified in the Decision. It was an extension of the same decision that was valid until March 31.
“The decision defines the locations where events can be organized with the corresponding permitted noise levels during the duration of the events. In the open air, the noise level during events must not exceed 100 dB and must not exceed the legally prescribed noise level of 65 dB in other parts of the city.
It should be pointed out that private events and festivals can be organised within the same parameters as official events, with an application to the town authorities.
Whichever side of the fence you are on, few can dispute that more regulation was needed, as things have been spiralling out of control for a few years now. I would expect that there will be more compromise in the coming months – and the local elections in May could prove interesting – but I also think that this is a great opportunity for Hvar to show it is an outstanding destination beyond the party, for all of the reasons I mentioned above. Watch out for creative solutions to get around the system.
The town has worked really hard in the last 10 years to extend its season and build up its sporting event and adventure tourism offer. From attracting one of the world’s top cycling teams, Bahrain Merida, to do its winter cycling preparation in December 3 years in a row, to the outstanding Spartan World Championship in October, this is a destination which offers an embarrassment of riches in terms of things to see and do. There will be also Tour de Hvar trail race, and European championship in open water swimming – anyone interested can follow the official tourist board events page.
Will the 2025 season be the biggest party Hvar has ever known? Probably not, but if it can take stock of the situation and make the right decisions, the party tourism segment could fit into the bigger picture, just as it did in the 1980s.
And for the MANY people in love with Hvar who have been put off by the party headlines over the last few years, this summer could be the one to revisit and fall in love again.
I have always seen Hvar as a gorgeous place which welcomes and caters to everyone, and I honestly enjoyed my four visits to Hvar Town last year (Easter, July, September and October) more than ever before. There are some discussions to be had, some adjustments to be made, but I firmly believe that this unique town is heading in the right direction as one of the most elite destinations in all Europe, and I look forward to my next visit this Easter.
Croatia, Full of Life is the official tourism slogan, somewhat at odds with the 65 decibel limit (which is EU-wide). That is fine and can be worked around, but this is not a Hvar – but a national – issue. Inspectors seemed to be very zealous on Hvar last summer, much more so than elsewhere. Had the same level of inspection occurred everywhere, it would have been a very unusual season indeed. Time for the tourism gurus at command central to come up with direction and leadership on this issue, including fair monitoring and inspection across all tourism destinations.
I am sure that this issue will be debated a lot more in the coming weeks and months, but whatever the final decisions, one thing will remain – Hvar Town is a magical destination, with so much diversity and treasures to offer, as well as that exceptional vibe in the buzzing centre of town. I, for one, am looking forward to my next visit.
