Krauthaker, Chardonnay Rosenberg, 2015

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Price: 79,98 kunas

Do I owe an apology to Krauthaker? Five and a half years ago the published impression of the 2008 Rosenberg Chardonnay, with plenty of positive attributes, still defined it as a calculated and boring wine, even styled along the lines of the superficial market.

Things change. Some for better. Some for worse. A year after that impression the noted impressions for Baković’s Plavac Murvica placed that wine in the very top of the most important Croatian red wines. Today I don’t know what to think of the 2009 Murvica. Except that something went wrong.

I don’t claim that Krauthaker’s Rosenberg Chardonnay 2015 suddenly became a terroir mineral sensation, but it has “something” that distinguishes it from “boring.” Grace? Beauty? It simply feels right. It was always finely tailored as Krauthaker knows how to make wine, but that wasn’t it. Why is it now?

It is very Chardonnay on the nose. But without the butter, without the wood, without alcohol and especially important – without fake tropical sensations. But the fruit aspect is quite present. Quince, pear, vineyard peach.

Beauty in the mouth. Harmonious, soft, lingering without “holes” on the palate. Fullness of body constantly slides and what remains after the sip bears witness to fruit of ideal ripeness. Not too extreme extract, which enables a balanced, drinkable dryness of a Kutjevo Chardonnay with 13% alcohol.

Lovely, beautiful wine.

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