Dubrovnik’s Perfect Escapes: Slano

Lauren Simmonds

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Continuing our look at the many beautiful townships and villages close to the City of Dubrovnik, let’s move northwest into the Dubrovnik-Primorje municipality and visit Slano…

Slano, named after its own bay, is a picturesque coastal village which lies just off the main D8 coastal road about 34 kilometres northwest of Dubrovnik. The area it is located in is particularly beautiful, and much like Cavtat, Slano is flanked on either side by both towering mountains and the Adriatic sea. While still small, Slano has gone from strength to strength when it comes to catering to tourists and welcoming a steadily growing number of visitors each year.

Inhabited since prehistoric times, Slano has been a known human settlement throughout recorded history. It was, like many other places in this area, settled by both Greek colonists and Romans. Many ruins from the times of the Greeks and the Roman conquerors can be found to this day in the rugged, evergreen-covered mountains which surround Slano, the most significant and intact of them all being excellently preserved early Christian sarcophagi (now situated in front of the Franciscan church of Saint Hieronymus) and the Roman castrum at Gradina Hill. As far as churches go, Slano boasts several, the aforementioned Saint Hieronymus Franciscan church which is decorated with a polyptych designed by the famed painter Lovro Dobricevic, The 13th century churches of the Annunciation and Saint Peter in Banja and the parish church of Saint Blaise, built in 1407 and reconstructed in Baroque times.

By the time the 14th century rolled around, Slano had fallen under the jurisdiction of the powerful, autonomous Republic of Ragusa (modern day Dubrovnik), of which it was a valued part. The village of Slano served as a seat of the Rector of the Republic and also a place of respite and relaxation for lawmakers, officials and local nobility of the time. A handful of their lavish summerhouses exist to this very day, a notable one is that of the prominent Ohmucevic family, who were well known sailors and educated men of letters. Many centuries later, at the time of the Croatian War of Independence (1990’s), Slano, much like the City of Dubrovnik, fell victim to the aggression of the JNA and was senselessly attacked until it was almost unrecognisable before being lovingly rebuilt by locals.

The traditional practices of fruit growing, fishing, the cultivation of various natural herbs and agriculture in general have survived in and around Slano over the very many generations in spite of the slow take-over of the tourism industry, making it the perfect place to get a glimpse of the past and experience Croatia as it once was. Slano boasts beautiful coves and beaches fringed with evergreen pines. Small vessels like private yachts are able to anchor in Slano’s Banja cove and larger vessels can be anchored just outside of the cove’s entrance, just south of Cape Gornji. The luxury hotels Admiral Grand Hotel (five star) and the Hotel Osmina (three star) can be found in Slano, with other accommodation options being private rooms, apartments and houses rented by locals. Slano is not short of quiet cafes, restaurants and taverns serving traditional Dalmatian cuisine and other gastronomical delights. It is conveniently close to Peljesac peninsula, the Elaphiti islands, the island of Mljet and other places dotted along the Dubrovnik riviera, making it easy to go from place to place.

There are bus lines between Dubrovnik and Slano, but these are unfortunately not to be relied entirely upon, so driving is the better option if you are working within a particular time frame. One more unusual point of interest if you have your own car/rental vehicle is to take the road leading out of Slano to Zavala in neighbouring Herzegovina (remember to take your passport!) and visit Vjetrenica, a popular cave.

An eternally relaxed vibe coupled with unspoiled natural surroundings, Slano is ideal for anyone needing a quick breather from the hustle and bustle of Dubrovnik, it is perfect for all ages and especially for families. Why not pay it a visit?

 

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