The Great Nestor of the Istrian Wine Scene Coronica Presented New Harvests

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Coronica and San Rocco Restaurant have a natural synergy. Moreno Coronica set the style and quality standards for mineral, fresh Malvasia, even more so for Terrano. San Rocco is the first luxury family hotel in Istria, whose restaurant has been among the ten finest in Croatia for a long time. Both Coronica and San Rocco denote the highest Istrian quality, hence it is logical that Moreno Coronica decided to present his new wines in the hotel of his friend Tulio Fernetich.

On the green lawn outside San Rocco, with a view of olive groves and a lovely large pool, we first tasted CO2, Coronica’s first sparkling, aged for 40 months on residue. CO Due is an excellent name, as it connects bubbles and Coronica’s well-known sign CO. The sparkling itself, however, is of a somewhat too light body and not enough sugars. In general, we love brut nature sparklings. But, the CO” presents both a lack of body and is missing the autolytic effect. This Malvasia sparkling could use some Chardonnay and a bit more of expedition liqueur. While the sparkling brought about ambivalent impressions, all thirty guests agreed that the Malvasia 2016 is quite sensational. It is mineral, salty and citrusy just like every year, but last year’s harvest increased the intensity of its aromas. We are almost certain this is the best Malvasia of 2016. The new Malvasia came with excellent scampi in red pepper, served with a wild asparagus mousse and egg cream. Next came an even better Gran Malvasia 2015 which still has its freshness and fruity-herbal aroma of a young wine, but with a much stronger body and almost creamy texture.

This is one of the truly exceptional Istrian wines, which can last for year. With this truly great Malvasia, San Rocco served us a noble, deep pasta from Gragagno, with gilt botarga and sea urchins. The Gran Terrano from 2013 is very rich in aromas, but still visibly too young. This wine reminds of young Bordeaux wines and will not be sensible to drink before 2018 or 2019, peaking around 2023.

Lamb cutlets ensured a wide enough frame even for such an intense and astringent wine. Finally, a Boscogrande from 2007, a cuvee of Cabernet, Terrano and Merlot, is right now presenting the potential of Istrian red wines. It is exemplary fresh but also very deep, expressive and elegant. A serious wine for the ending of a serious presentation of Moreno Coronica, probably the most important Istrian winemaker, on his 55th birthday.

For the original and more from Plava Kamenica, click here.


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