SVIJET U ČAŠI & SUHI U ČAŠI & WINE STARS
SMART BUYING GUIDE
SEPTEMBER 2016
IN THE WINE THERE IS SUN, SOIL, VINE AND SWEAT, AUTHENTICITY AND BUSINESS, JOY AND PAIN, ANXIETY AND EBRIETY
SAMPLES ARE FROM THE MARKET
♣♣♣♣♣♣ –Champion – 99 – 100 (or: 19,9 – 20 / 4,9 – 5,0) pts = Brilliant! Impressive! Unique!
♣♣♣♣♣ –Great gold medal – 95 – 98 (19,5 – 19,8 / 4,5 – 4,8) = Excellent, with character, elegant, classic great wine.
♣♣♣♣ –Gold medal – 90 – 94 (18,6 – 19,4 / 4,0 – 4,4) = outstanding, multilayered, with high style and a big personality.
♣♣♣ –Silver medal – 85 – 89 (17,5 – 18,5 / 3,0 – 3,9) = very good and typical, complex, convincing, with chances to develop even more, for the exigent consumer.
♣♣ 80 – 84 (15,5 – 17,4 / 2,1 – 2,9) = sort recognisable, in a certain determinate style, solid, not exciting.
♣ 71 – 79 (11,0 – 15,4 / 1,1 – 2,0) = average, ordinary, with no virtues and no significant to strong flaws, still acceptable for everyday use.
under 71 ( 11,0 / 1,0) = low-average, best to avoid.
⇑- drink • ⇗ –drink or hold • ⇒ –hold • – recommended to drink with food.
Samples are taken from sources with adequate wine storage and expert staff, so inappropriate storage effects should be excluded. If a classic scent or taste is found on the cap (TCA), the sample is retasted from another bottle. A sample is immediately rejected if at least two thirds of the jury decides so. For a quality/price comparison the wine needs at least 85 points out of 100, or 17.5 points from 20, or 3 on a scale to 5.
North Western Hills
♣ ♣ ♣ (♣) (M) RHINE RIESLING 2015 – CMREČNJAK
ZAGORJE MEĐIMURJE Sv.URBAN
■ VINEYARD: slope • sort: Rhine Riesling
■ LABEL&ALCOHOL: quality with controlled origin • dry • 13,0 %
■ BOTTLED in: 0,75 ℓ (cca 5.000 bottles) • bottle: normal, fits the wine: yes • model, type: Rhein • CAP: cork
■ DESIGN: decent – neat • label: readable, good
WINE is complex, rich, spruced up, harmonious, fresh and dynamic. Coherent with: terroir, typology, sort, harvest. On the rise. Looks lively, clear, with a full yellowish colour. Semi-strong on the nose, fruity, well presented (fruit: domestic/green; white/apple, citrus – touch), floral – kiss. Savoury in the mouth, with quality acids. In body & structure very good, with a fresh long warming ending.
■ SERVING: ⇗ • larger glass • 12°C
♣ ♣ ♣ (M) SAUVIGNON 2015 – CMREČNJAK
ZAGORJE-MEĐIMURJE, Sv. URBAN
■ VINEYARD: slope • sort: Sauvignon
■ LABEL&ALCOHOL: quality with controlled origin • dry • 12,3 %
■ BOTTLED in: 0,75 ℓ (cca 5.000 bottles) • bottle: normal • model, type: Bordeaux • CAP: screw on
■ DESIGN: decent – neat • label: readable, good
WINE is complex, juicy, spruced up, harmonious, fresh and dynamic, aromatic and likeable. Coherent with: terroir, typology, sort, harvest, age, sips well. On the rise. Looks lively, clear, green-yellow. Relatively intense on the nose but not over done, fruity, presents well (fruit domestic: peach, south: citrus, grape), floral. Rounded in the mouth, lively, with expressed, very good acids. In body and structure good to very good, with a fresh, solid long ending.
■ SERVING: ⇗ • medium large glass • 10°C
♣ ♣ ♣ (M) GRAŠEVINA 2015 – CMREČNJAK
ZAGORJE MEĐIMURJE Sv. URBAN
■ VINEYARD: slope • sort: Graševina
■ LABEL&ALCOHOL: quality with controlled origin • dry • 13,4 %
■ BOTTLED in: 0,75 ℓ (cca 6.000 bottles) • bottle: normal • model, type: Bordeaux • CAP: screw on
■ DESIGN: decent – neat • label: readable, good
WINE is spruced up, serious, ripe, warm, plenty of life, coherent with: terroir, typology, sort, harvest, goes well with food. In its peak (that can last). Looks lively, clear, green-yellow. Fruity on the nose, floral, honey – touch, nuance of grass. Rounded and smooth in the mouth, savoury, salty, quite good acids. In body & structure very good, fine bitter, quite long ending.
■ SERVING: ⇗ • medium large glass • 12°C
♣ ♣ ♣ (L) SIVI PINOT 2014 – KURTALJ
PLEŠIVICA-OKIĆ
■ VINEYARD: slope • sort: Grey Pinot
■ LABEL&ALCOHOL: quality with controlled origin • semi-sec • 13 %
■ BOTTLED in: 0,75 ℓ • bottle: normal • model, type: Bordeaux
■ DESIGN: decent – neat • label: lively – recognisable from distance – readable, good
WINE is of light, modern pink colour, with medium intense scent, full, warm, salty, could use more acids to increase liveliness and freshness. Warm in the mouth, bitter ending. Goes with stronger food.
■ SERVING: ⇗ • medium large glass • 10-12°C
♣ ♣ (♣) (M) PUŠIPEL 2015 classic – CMREČNJAK
ZAGORJE MEĐIMURJE Sv. URBAN
■ VINEYARD: slope • sort: Pušipel
■ LABEL&ALCOHOL: quality with controlled origin • dry • 12 %
■ BOTTLED in: 0,75 ℓ • bottle: normal • model, type: Bordeaux • CAP: cork
■ DESIGN: decent – neat • label: unified in association
WINE is spruced up, harmonious, fresh, light, likeable, nice / drinkable in the long run. In its peak. Purposely with lower alcohol to make it more drinkable. Looks lively, clear, green-yellow. Uncomplicated on the nose, finely presented, fruity, presented well (fruit: domestic/white/pit, ripe quince, apricot – touch), floral. Rounded in the mouth, soft, slightly sweet, solid acids. In body & structure good, slender, fresh sweet-bitter medium long ending.
■ SERVING: ⇗ • medium large glass • 8-10°C
♣ ♣ (M) PINOT BIJELI 2015 – JAREC-KURE
PRIGORJE BILOGORA, ZELINA
■ VINEYARD: slope • sort: Pinot Blanc
■ LABEL&ALCOHOL: dry • 12,5 %
■ BOTTLED in: 0,75 ℓ • model, type: Bordeaux • CAP: screw on
■ DESIGN: neat – ordinary
WINE is uncomplicated, without breadth. Slightly toned down on the nose, but still with recognisable sort, smells of white ripe fruit, salty in the mouth, ending bitter.
■ SERVING: ⇗ • medium large glass • 10-12°C
♣ (M) MANZONI BIJELI 2014– JAREC-KURE
PRIGORJE BILOGORA, ZELINA
■ VINEYARD: slope • sort: Incrocio Manzoni
■ LABEL&ALCOHOL: quality with controlled origin • semi-sec • 12 %
■ BOTTLED in: 0,75 ℓ • model, type: Bordeaux • CAP: screw on
■ DESIGN: neat – ordinary
WINE is uncomplicated, unharmonious, toned down on the nose and not quite clear (seems to have mold residue, characteristic of 2014). Sweet in the mouth and with high acids.
■ SERVING: ⇗ • medium large glass • 8°C
Sparkling wines
♣ ♣ ♣ ♣ (♣) (XL-XXL) DIPLOMAT extra brut – TOMAC
PLEŠIVICA
■ VINEYARD: slope • sort: Chardonnay 90 %, Plavec yellow 10 %
■ CELLAR, vinification: indigenous yeasts • fermentation and aging of base wine in large barrels for six months • in bottle on residue: 24 months
■ CHAMPAGNE, method: classical (champenoise, fermentation in bottle)
■ LABEL&ALCOHOL: protected origin, superior with controlled origin • extra brut • 12,5 %
■ BOTTLED in: 0,75 ℓ (cca 8.000 bottles) • bottle: normal traditional wine: yes • model, type: Champagne • CAP: cork-serious
■ DESIGN: elegant – decent • label: front – new! – in gentle light blue colour – recognisable from afar – back: readable, good
WINE is multilayered, juicy, with character, spruced up, serious, ripe, harmonious, elegant. Fresh, dynamic. Coherent with: terroir, typology, sorts. Drinks well – with food – and for meditation. Looks lively, crystal clear, straw yellow with slight green nuance. Excellent pearling, playful tiny numerous bubbles, confirmed in the mouth. Medium strong on the nose, fruity (fruit: domestic/green, white, pit/apple, peach…), brad crust, noble wood. Brittle in the mouth, precise, bubbles sting finely. Salty, with quality acids. In body & structure very good, fresh, long ending.
■ SERVING: large and wide glass (Bordeaux, for Grand Cru) • 10°C
♣ ♣ (♣) (L) POY premium extra brut – MLADINA
PLEŠIVICA-OKIĆ
■ VINEYARD: slope
■ LABEL&ALCOHOL: protected origin, superior with controlled origin • extra brut • 12,5 %
■ BOTTLED in: 0,75 ℓ • bottle: normal • model, type: Champagne
■ DESIGN: decent – neat • label: yellow-gold – readable, good
WINE is spruced up, harmonious, fresh, playful, easy to drink in the long run. Looks lively, clear, with very good pearling. Fruity on the nose, sense of yeasts, bread/brioche. Soft in the mouth, with good acids. In body & structure slender, medium long ending.
■ SERVING: ⇑ (aperitif, summer refreshment, seafood, fresh homemade cracklings, fresh cheese and cream) • large and wide glass (for sparkling) • 8-10°C
♣ ♣ (L) CMREČNJAK classic brut bijelo – CMREČNJAK
ZAGORJE MEĐIMURJE Sv.URBAN
■ VINEYARD: slope
■ LABEL&ALCOHOL: protected origin, table wine with controlled origin, classic method • brut
■ BOTTLED in: model, type: Champagne
■ DESIGN: neat
WINE is uncomplicated, looks lively (in colour, clarity) but no special pearling. Quite salty on the nose, apple compote, sense of highly predicate wine, sweet in the mouth, in body & structure good, salty ending
■ SERVING: ⇑ • 8-10°C
♣ ♣ ♣ (XL) KURTALJ ROSÉ brut – KURTALJ
PLEŠIVICA-OKIĆ
■ VINEYARD: slope • sort: Pinot Noir 70% & various white sorts traditionally grown on Plešivica
■ CHAMPAGNE, method: classical (champenoise, fermentation in bottle)
■ LABEL&ALCOHOL: superior with controlled origin • brut • 12,5 %
■ BOTTLED in: 0,75 ℓ • bottle: normal • model, type: Champagne • CAP: cork
■ DESIGN: decent, neat • label: slightly removed – attractive, inventive – recognisable from afar – in two sections – readable, good
WINE has a lovely light and modern pink colour, very good pearling, fine fruity scent, lively and playful, slender, harmonious, fitting for (summer) refreshment
■ SERVING: ⇑ (aperitif, with clams and crabs, homemade pasta with strawberry ragu and red pepper) • medium large glass (for sparkling) • 8-10°C
♣ ♣ (♣) (M) CMREČNJAK classic brut rosé – CMREČNJAK
ZAGORJE MEĐIMURJE Sv. URBAN
■ VINEYARD: slope
■ LABEL&ALCOHOL: classic method • brut • 12,9 %
■ BOTTLED in: 0,75 ℓ • bottle: normal • model, type: Champagne
■ DESIGN: neat
WINE is fresh, playful, likeable, uncomplicated. Looks lively, clear, soft pink, with long lasting pearling and fine small bubbles. Moderate on the nose, fruity, presented well (fruit: domestic/red). Graceful in the mouth, with good acids. In body & structure good, fresh medium long ending.
■ SERVING: ⇑ • 8-10°C
Dalmatia
♣ ♣ ♣ (♣) (L-XL) GRK 2015 – BIRE
MIDDLE AND SOUTH DALMATIA, KORČULA, LUMBARDA
■ VINEYARD: soil: sandy • sort: Grk
■ LABEL&ALCOHOL: superior with controlled origin • dry • 13,5 %
■ BOTTLED in: 0,75 ℓ • bottle: normal • model, type: Bourgogne • CAP: DIAM 5
■ DESIGN: elegant – decent • label: interesting – attractive – recognisable from afar – in two sections – readable, good
WINE is complex, substantial, rich, juicy, serious, but at the same time likeable, harmonious, warm, fresh. Coherent with: terroir, typology, harvest, age. Drinks nicely. On the rise. Looks lively, clear, green-yellow. Presents finely on the nose, medium strong, fruity, presented well (fruit: domestic: white, pit, south/banana – touch), floral (flowers: fresh, white). Rounded and soft in the mouth, savoury, with quality acids. In body & structure very good, fresh fine bitter and quite long warming ending.
■ SERVING: ⇗ • larger glass • 12°C
♣ ♣ ♣ (XL) POŠIP 2015 – GRGIĆ-VINA
MIDDLE AND SOUTH DALMATIA, KORČULA, ČARA
■ VINEYARD: sort: Pošip, ecological/organic
■ LABEL&ALCOHOL: quality with controlled origin • dry • 13 %
■ BOTTLED in: 0,75 ℓ • bottle: normal – fits the wine • model, type: Bordeaux • CAP: cork-serious
■ DESIGN: tidy • label: colourful – crowded – one section
WINE is complex and serious, harmonious, fine freshness, drinkable. Mineral, with an attractive scent of ripe white pit fruit with an additional aromatic strain – result of short aging of wine in wooden barrel. Full in the mouth, solid, salty, rounded, with quality acids, very good body, long lasting. Has potential for aging.
■ SERVING: ⇗ (fits with complex, warm meals of fish and white meat – grilled chicken with vegetables and olive oil…) • larger glass (Bordeaux) • 12°C
♣ ♣ ♣ (L-XL) TEZORO 2015 selection – CRVIK
KONAVLE
■ VINEYARD: sort: Dubrovnik Malvasia
■ LABEL&ALCOHOL: superior with controlled origin • dry • 13 %
■ BOTTLED in: 0,75 ℓ • bottle: model, type: Bourgogne • CAP: cork
■ DESIGN: decent • label: original – recognisable from afar – in two sections – readable, good
WINE is complex, substantial, juicy, harmonious, fresh and with plenty of life. Coherent with: terroir, typology, sort, harvest, age. Goes well with food. Looks lively, clear, green-yellow. Mediocre on the nose, fruity, presents well (fruit: domestic/green; white; pit; fresh), floral (flowers: fresh, bright). Rounded in the mouth savoury, salty, good acids. In body & structure very good, fresh pleasant bitter long ending.
■ SERVING: ⇗ (grilled fish, brodetto…) • larger glass • 12°C
♣ ♣ ♣ ♣ ♣ (XXL-XXXL) PLAVAC MALI 2013 – GRGIĆ-VINA
PELJEŠAC, DINGAČ and POSTUP
■ VINEYARD: slope; position southwest • sort: Plavac Mali, ecological/organic
■ CELLAR: aging: barrique (225 ℓ) – new and used
■ LABEL&ALCOHOL: quality with controlled origin • dry • 15 %
■ BOTTLED in: 0,75 ℓ • bottle: normal – fits the wine • model, type: Bordeaux • CAP: cork
■ DESIGN: neat • label: colourful – crowded – one section
WINE is excellent, very serious, multilayered, rich and dense, broad, for broths and meditation moments. It has it all and it’s ours! Darker ruby colour with slight granite shine, excellent finely presented scent dominated by dried dark fruits, especially grapes, plums. Wood is finely incorporated. In the mouth the wine is creamy and not quite polished tannins, could use more bottle time in proper conditions. Wine is on the rise and can last long in good condition.
■ SERVING: ⇗ (serve with pašticada, long simmered beef in sauce, venison, roasts…) • uncork bottle an hour before serving – decant • larger glass (Bordeaux) • 18°C
♣ ♣ ♣ ♣ (XL) PLAVAC MALI DECENT X 2009 – KORTA KATARINA
PELJEŠAC POSTUP & DINGAČ
■ VINEYARD: slope, position southwest • sort: Plavac Mali
■ LABEL&ALCOHOL: superior with controlled origin • dry • 16 %
■ BOTTLED in: 0,75 ℓ • bottle: normal • model, type: Bordeaux • CAP: cork-serious
■ DESIGN: elegant • label: attractive
WINE is complex, serious, ripe, harmonious, very warm, plenty of life. Coherent with: terroir, sort, harvest, age. Goes well with food and in meditation moments. In its peak (that can last). Looks ruby-granite, dark. Mediocre on the nose, developed, fruity, presents well (fruit: domestic/red/pit, dried, simmered/plum), spices – with measure, very well blended, sense of chocolate. Rounded in the mouth, with lively and polished tannins, savoury, salty. In body & structure potent, long warming ending.
■ SERVING: ⇗ (dark meat, simmered, pašticada, roasts…) • uncork bottle several hours before serving – decant • larger glass (Bordeaux) • 18°C
♣ ♣ ♣ (M) BONAPARTE PLAVAC MALI 2013 – VINA ROTA
MIDDLE AND SOUTH DALMATIA, PELJEŠAC
■ VINEYARD: sort: Plavac Mali
■ LABEL&ALCOHOL: superior with controlled origin • dry • 13,5 %
■ BOTTLED in: 0,75 ℓ • bottle: tall slender • basic model, type: Bordeaux • CAP: cork
■ DESIGN: decent, neat • label: unreadable due to small letters, producer barely legible
WINE is lively, complex, spruced up, elegant. Lovely dark ruby colour with granite shine. Bouquet has ripe and dried dark fruit – mulberry, grapes, plums but also certain smoke gained through aging in burnt wood. Taste is savoury and fits well. Tannin, although not rough, not quite polished and slightly bitter – but not a concern!
■ SERVING: ⇗ (wine could go well with beef roast and venison) • uncork bottle several hours before serving – decant • larger glass (Bordeaux) • 18°C
♣ ♣ (L) R 6 2014 – BIBICH
PRIMORJE
■ VINEYARD: sort: Babić, Plavina, Lasin
■ CELLAR: aging: barrique (225 ℓ) – lightly burnt
■ LABEL&ALCOHOL: quality with controlled origin • dry • 13 %
■ BOTTLED in: 0,75 ℓ • bottle: normal – fits the wine • model, type: Bordeaux
■ DESIGN: neat • label: recognisable – in two sections – readable, tougher in back section (small letters and weak contrast)
WINE has certain complexity but does not warrant another glass, at a level of decent drink with everyday lunch. Spices mix in the nose, wood and burnt and in a smaller amount, dark fruit, salty in the mouth, with pronounced acids, body is medium strong.
■ SERVING: ⇑ • 14-16°C
WINE STARS CLUB 2016 – Smart Buying Guide
TASTING AT BORNSTEIN – Tasting by the Wine Stars Club for this Buying Guide was at the Bornstein wine shop in Zagreb. With the permanent trio Vitomir Andrić, Ivo Kozarčanin and Željko Suhadolnik were enologist Ivana Srbanić Petric, director of the Institute for Wine Growing and Wine Making, Mario Meštrović, lecturer at the Croatian Sommelier Club and manager of the Mon Ami restaurant in Velika Gorica and Ivan Dropuljić, founder and director of the gastronomy and wine festival ZagrebVino.com. Wines were poured by Anđelko Burazin of Bornstein wine shop.
Read also on blogs VinoVito, Bakhov Sin, Suhiucasi.wordpress and in 24Sata and Svijet u Čaši.
Wines for rating by the Wine Club were provided by retail stores: BORNSTEIN, MIVA, PUNI SEPET, ROTO DINAMIC, VRUTAK.
We hereby thank wine shop Bornstein and Cafe&Kitchen Louie for their hospitality and wine stores for the samples!
Slavonia & Danube area
♣ ♣ (M-L) CROsé 2015 – SÜBER
ERDUT
■ VINEYARD: flatland, along the Danube • sort: Cabernet Sauvignon
■ LABEL&ALCOHOL: , protected origin, quality with controlled origin • dry • 12,5 %
■ BOTTLED in: 0,75 ℓ • bottle: normal, clear • model, type: Bordeaux • CAP: DIAM 3
■ DESIGN: neat • label: front playful
WINE is ripe, harmonious, soft and still, likeable, drinkable in the long run. Looks light pink, developed on the nose, fruity, presents well (fruit: domestic/dark, berry; strawberry, fresh/raspberry),floral. Rounded in the mouth, savoury, in body & structure good.
■ SERVING: ⇑ • 8-10°C
♣ ♣ ♣ (M) MERLOT 2015 – BUHAČ
CROATIAN DANUBE, ILOK
■ VINEYARD: sort: Merlot
■ LABEL&ALCOHOL: superior with controlled origin • dry • 13,5 %
■ BOTTLED in: 0,75 ℓ • bottle: normal – fits the wine • model, type: Bordeaux
■ DESIGN: decent • label: simple – readable, good
WINE is substantial, dense, still rough, feels like it was removed from ripening before time, too soon on the market. Lovely very dark ruby colour, quite fruity in the nose (dark berry and pit fruit) and herbal notes, dry in the mouth, tannins not quite polished, lively acids, body and structure good, ending quite long. Worth holding in the bottle for some time and open for Christmas, with hearty meals.
■ SERVING: ⇗ (stew, beef steak in dark sauce with black pasta and dry plum) • larger glass (Bordeaux) • 18°C
