Price: 50 kn in the cellar
Kolarić is a well known name, actually last name of the Plešivica winemaker, still best known for the Green Silvaner. Is it not perfectly understandable for him to have a wine named Stare Sorte (old varieties)?
“Old” is “sexy.” Vieilles Vignes. Old vineyards used for many years to make wine on Plešivica for personal needs, are today attractive to wine geeks as they contain varieties rarely found today and even more rarely declared in wine.
This is good news for me, as Green Silvaner is something I wouldn’t choose even as a backup. I still did not expect something like this from Kolarić. I want to be honest and write that I do not recall I tasted anything from Kolarić in years. There was nothing bad, or anything to write about. I now wish to apologise for my prejudice.
A recent happenstance private visit faced me with something “new,” but actually old. I even like the new Silvaner, Graševina in which I felt material from old Graševina clones, but mostly the monovariety Neuburger and Stare Sorte as a still wine and as a Brut Nature sparkling under the Colleti label.
Stare Sorte contains Plavec Žuti, Šipelj, Štajerska Belina and Kraljevina from an old vineyard. It would be hard to find the first three in a new one.
A superficial consumer can smell nothing in this clear liquid with a pitiful 12% alcohol. This is the beauty of it.
Linden tea in a soft sip. Even some specific mineral sensations, taste of rain. Soft and mineral. Unnoticeable acids, but not lacking in freshness.
Body seems thin, but goes quite well with stronger food, ideal with cold cuts.
Delicate drink, harmonious, without roughness, without rusticity. Something that used to be an accessible everyday house wine, is now refined and authentic. In actuality, it was like that the whole time.
Kolarić, you messed up. Now I expect even better things in the future.
For the original and more from Vinopija.com blog on wine, click here.
