Prović, MC, 2013

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Price: cca 75 kunas

I had a hunch 2013 would be in line with 2012, but I did not dare hope it would be better. What does better even mean. Well, let’s say it doesn’t hurt when Buonsangue admits: “I’ll buy, without blinking!”

While the wine was still opening in the glass after being in the decanter for a short while, first observation had begun – recognisable Bordeaux matrix. It is not surprising Tvrle would recognise Bordeaux blindfolded. It is a notorious fact he is wrong only at lunch time, but at dinner he gets them all right. What is surprising is that he recognises it in a Croatian Bordeaux coupage.

“Young, but with a very fine definition” is, in essence, everything that needs to be said about the life phase of the wine and of the recognisability of the blend Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot. From my perspective it is an accomplishment for a wine to have a life cycle, unlike many liquids also named wine.

Tvrle, however, argues on that Prović MC 13 realises a coexistence of 3 components which could, in the context of Bordeaux, result in an excellent, potentially great Bordeaux: varietal signature, intensity, transparency and drinkability.

“Intensity is presented as a certain vibrating, effortless intensity on the palate, strong presence which, independently of any tricks, owes its mid-palate presence to simplicity and vitality of a well balanced extract. Then, transparency and elegant seductiveness in the sense of drinkability, with clear references to varietal connectivity.”

The intensity of what is felt and how it is felt, with a simultaneous accessibility, and ease of performance, seem simple, while they are actually a rarely achievable harmony. I don’t know how to explain it, but I usually like to use phrases of “extract quality” versus simple “quantity or weight of extract.” Here we enter the soil as one of the important preconditions for such a wine to occur…

As if all the above wasn’t a gigantic compliment already, at some moment of exhilaration came a compulsive analogy between certain Bordeaux appellations and Neretva. Next time we must invite Clemens. The topic of alluvial terroirs is something he would enjoy.

For the original and more from blog on wine, click here.


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