Crvik, Blasius, Dubrovnik Malvazija, 2015

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Price: 139,90 kuna

I said then: “I am too old to get involved with these things Marin, but heed my advice. There will be trouble with this Malvazija… when lug appears, nothing will be the same.”

“You senile old man… powdery mildew will not appear for another three hundred years,” Marin readily answered, “and there is no better Prosecco or baked wine from here to Madeira.”

Five hundred years later the Crvik Winery devotes its wines to the great Dubrovnik comedian, Marin Držić. During the recent Dubrovnik FestiWine I visited the Crvik Winery. Generally, with every new tasting of Crvik premium labels, I grow happier. That day in the tasting room Negromant thrilled with its balance and true beauty. The Cabernet Sauvignon also thrilled us as well as the Bordeaux coupage named Fairy Dance.

Even the Dubrovnik Malvazija. I admit its sweet-intoxicating scent and lack of depth prevented me from recognising the role it can play. But what to do when the flower aromas of the Dubrovnik Malvazija become a spice… many spices reminiscent of saffron and curry.

On the palate it seems clean and not at all extremely macerated. The pollen story develops in the aftertaste, elder, acacia. Yellow microscopic tannins persistently deposit on the palate. They increase the sense of extractness, dryness and fullness.

Is this the essence of the variety which gives flaunting, wide wines, quite drinkable… or is the influence of schooling in a wooden barrel ‘painting’ the wine, no matter how well done?

In any case, this is an orange Malvazija in only two experimental barrels which creates an unexpected persistence on the palate.

For the original and more from blog on wine, click here.


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